Friday, April 29, 2011

How to Plant a Mango Tree With a Seed

The mango (Mangifera indica L.) is related to the cashew and pistachio and is native to South Asia. To thrive, mangoes require temperatures above 40 degrees Fahrenheit all year, with little rain or fog. Summer sunshine and lots of heat will prompt the mango tree to grow to a height of 65 feet and produce a 20-foot long taproot. A mango tree grown from seed will produce fruit in three to six years.

1. Remove the outer shell surrounding the mango seed with small, sharp pruning shears. Be careful not to injure the seed during removal.

2. Soak the seed in a bowl of room-temperature water for 24 hours.


3. Fill a planting pot with potting soil, water it well and allow it to drain completely.
4. Plant the seed, 1 inch deep, with the concave edge facing down into the soil. Cover the seed with soil and keep it moist until it germinates, generally within three weeks.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

FRUIT TREE DISEASES

Apple Scab
The #1 disease of apple anywhere.
Symptoms:



  • they are rough fruit







  • uncommon fruit drop and leaf infection







  • accompanied by early defoliation.







  • the following year, you'll find decreased fruit bud growing and general reduction of the strength of the tree.






  • The fungus that brings on apple scab overwinters in leaf droppings. Early spring winds bring spores into the tree canopy, the consequent is lesions on leaves. Warm rainy climate leads to scab growth. Brand new infections are made through the summer as rains wash the fungus onto other leaves and fruit.
    Suggestions:
    The fungus that brings on apple scab overwinters in leaf droppings. Early spring winds bring spores into the tree canopy, the consequent is lesions on leaves. Warm rainy climate leads to scab growth. Brand new infections are made through the summer as rains wash the fungus onto other leaves and fruit.
    Suggestions:
    The fungus that brings on apple scab overwinters in leaf droppings. Early spring winds bring spores into the tree canopy, the consequent is lesions on leaves. Warm rainy climate leads to scab growth. Brand new infections are made through the summer as rains wash the fungus onto other leaves and fruit.
    Suggestions:



  • plant resistant varieties.







  • gather and take away fallen leaves.






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    Fire Blight

    It can induce grave harm to apple and pear trees.
    Symptoms:



  • fire blight commonly assaults blossoms, but infection and dying of new shoots are usual.







  • the downward looped twig tip is a feature of fire blight.
    Suggestion:







  • chop off infected twigs and branches 12 inches beneath the dead area.







  • clean the pruning tool between cuts by dunking in 10% solution of liquid bleach to stave off dispersing the disease.







  • Cedar-Apple Rust
    Symptoms:



  • bright orange blemishes on leaves and fruit.







  • usually lessen the strength of tree.
    The fungus that cause cedar-apple rust finish part of their life cycle on red cedar trees that in spring it brings about large, bright orange, gummy lesions at the ends of branches.
    Suggestion:







  • get rid of nearby Eastern red cedars.






  • Pear ScabPear scab happens in any place pears are grown. Also known as black spot on account of the dark spots it makes on leaves and fruits. Most tainted pears can still be consumed if the scabby area is taken out.
    Symptoms:



  • it first shows up on the bottom and then after on the side of the fruit.







  • infected fruit frequently become distorted.







  • scab spores arise in the winter in infected leaves that are on the ground.







  • invasion of the body starts at the green-tip phase of flower bud development.







  • infection is greater when blossoms are exposed, but goes forward for about 6 to 9 weeks.

    Suggestion:







  • get rid of leaf debris and infected fruit in the autumn.






  • PEACHES
    Bacterial Spot
    Bacterial Spot is one of the most damaging disease in all regions east of the Rockies.
    It is first sighted about 3 to 5 weeks after petals fall as small, water-drenched, brown lesions. First evidences on fruit can be misidentified for insect damage. During times of high humidity, gum may ooze out from these wounds.









    Saturday, April 23, 2011

    Types of Fruit Seeds


    Fruit bearing plants throughout the world produce seeds. Also known as angiosperms, these fruit plants are also known as flowering plants. The seed production of the fruits produced by angiosperms allows for cross pollination and the ability to propagate more plants in your home garden. Knowing about some of the different seeds produced by fruit-bearing angiosperms educates you further in your gardening endeavors.


    Avocado

    With its large, single seed, the avocado presents itself as an unattractive fruit with a history of unattractive monikers. Such names for the avocado have included alligator pear and butter pear. Produced by the tree of the same name, the avocado is one of the only edible members of the laurel family and grows well in hot and sunny climates in sandy soils. Avocados do not ripen on the tree, making natural pollination a lengthy process as the fruits have to die and fall from the tree for the large pit in the middle to be accessible. Ripening the fruits at home requires picking them and sitting them aside for a week or two after the fruits have matured. The large, single seed within the fruit varies in color from light yellow to brown and can be smooth or have a brain-like texture. The seed is rather fleshy, making it seem like a fruit itself.

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    Black Sapote

    Also known as the black persimmon, the black sapote grows native in eastern Mexico and parts of Central and South America. The black sapote contains anywhere from two to 10 seeds within its custard-like flesh, and they're easily spread throughout the wild due to the soft and easily penetrated skin of the black sapote. This allows for birds and other wildlife the ability to spread the seeds with ease. Growing black sapote in your home garden requires that you enrich your soil with plenty of compost and peat moss. Create a humus-enriched environment in which the seeds of the black sapote can germinate. The climate must be warm and sunny like tropical and subtropical parts of the U.S. and parts of the West Coast. The flavor of the black sapote is reminiscent of chocolate, although the fruit and seeds resemble that of a tomato.

    Kiwi Fruit

    The kiwi fruit, also known as the Chinese gooseberry, presents itself as a thin-skinned and fuzzy fruit that contains an uncountable number of seeds within its green, tangy flesh. The tiny black seeds within the kiwi resemble banana or strawberry seeds in that they appear to be nothing more than little black, pepper-like specs. Planting the kiwi from its small and delicate seeds proves challenging for home gardeners, so growing the plant from cuttings or seedlings is easier. However, the seeds of the kiwi provide home soap-crafting hobbyists with an excellent botanical exfoliant.

    Thursday, April 21, 2011

    Growing an Asian Pear Tree

    The best time to plant an Asian pear tree is in the autumn and winter if you live where frost is mild. Early spring is good where soils freeze -- as soon as the soil is workable. But you are okay planting them at any time of the year so long as the ground isn't icy.


  • Select a location to grow your tree in full sun. Dig the hole wider than than deep, but make sure the roots fit easily into the depth of the hole. If the soil is dry in the bottom of the hole, water it.




  • 3
    Back fill your hole with soil (mix in amendments now if your soil needs them). Asian pears are not all that fussy about soil so long as it is reasonably nutritious and drains well enough. Tamp in the soil and leave a depression like a moat around the outer edges of the hole to collect water. Allow that water to soak in slowly so it penetrates deeply.




  • 4
    Like most fruit trees, the Asian pear needs deep watering. The soil can dry out in the top few inches, but it should remain moist -- not wet -- down to the bottom of the roots.




  • 5
    Fruiting branches
    Feed your Asian pear with fruit tree fertilizer (either in compressed sticks or loose in packages, or mix your own fertilizers) in the early spring, early summer and late summer. Always under-fertilize rather than risking too much and burning roots.




  • 6
    Asian pear trees need little pruning, but you should shape your tree lightly during its first few years. Most Asian pears tend to grow taller than wide so allowing a single central shoot is a good form to train your tree to when young. After that, just cut out dead or crossing branches. You may need to stake a young tree for its first year if you live in a wind-prone area.




  • 7
    These trees can grow so narrow that if you want to plant them only 6 to 10 feet apart, you can grow them as a living wall. This is a great way to design an attractive and productive divider into your landscape.




  • 8
    Most varieties except 'Shinko' may develop fireblight. This is a bacterial disease carried by bees in damp, cool spring weather that will turn the ends of branches black and can really damage trees. There is no good cure commercially available so all you can do is try pruning back affected parts at least 5" below the blackened area to healthy wood.




  • 9
    Trees tend to become over-laden with fruit, so thin the fruit to just a one or two per cluster. This will produce larger fruit without being too much of a burden on the tree.




  • 10
    Asian pears are flavorful, good for fresh eating or cooking, easy to grow and a little bit unusual. They make great trees for the landscape and are beautiful when smothered with white flowers in the spring. The fruits are somewhat more expensive than many other fruits in stores, so there are plenty of good reasons to grow an Asian pear tree!






  • Tuesday, April 19, 2011

    Growing Asian Pears

    Remove all weeds within a 3-foot radius of the Asian pear tree's planting area.

    Dig a planting hole three times the width of the Asian pear tree's root ball and the same depth at which it has been growing. Scrape the inside walls and floor of the hole with a gardening fork to allow for easier root penetration.

    Place the Asian pear's root ball in the hole. Fill the hole halfway with soil and the rest of the way with water. When the water drains, fill the hole with soil. Tamp around the base of the tree with your hands or feet.

    Spread a 3-inch layer of mulch on the soil, keeping it 2 inches from the tree's trunk, in a 1-foot radius around the Asian pear tree.

    Water the tree until the water puddles. Keep the soil moist until the tree becomes established.

    Cut off the top of the Asian pear tree immediately after planting so that it is 25 to 30 inches tall. After the first year of growth, while the tree is dormant, choose four strong limbs, spaced around the tree, and cut off all the others. Cut the main limbs in half to create the structure of the tree. In the second dormant season, leave six main branches and cut them to 30 to 36 inches in length.

    Fertilize the Asian pear tree in its second year with 1 cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer. Apply half the fertilizer in the spring before new growth and the other half after the fruit sets. Scatter the fertilizer on the soil 2 inches from the base of the tree, and spread it out to the drip line.

    Lightly scratch it in with a rake and water the tree normally. In subsequent years, apply the fertilizer at 1/2 cup per year the tree has been in the ground, split into two applications as you did in the first application.

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    Sunday, April 17, 2011

    Ways to Grow a Meyer Lemon Tree Outdoors



    Meyer lemon trees have fruits which can be used as juices and in cooking. The Meyer lemon tree is a combination of the lemon tree and the mandarin tree. While its characteristics shows significantly more of the lemon fruit, the taste is sweeter and is less bitter compared to lemons along with less acidity.

    The Meyer lemon tree when matured has a lot of fruits. The fruit of the Meyer lemon tree is uually green while it grows and when ripened it turns to yellow/orange. The growth of the Meyer lemon tree can take up to a year.

    Surveying your land area should be the first step if you want to grow a Meyer
    lemon tree. The climate that will allow a Meyer lemon tree shouldn’t be beneath zero degrees celsius or thirty two degrees Fahrenheit.


    You can make a greenhouse where you can control the temperature of the environment. When you have purchased a Meyer lemon tree planted on a pot remove it and shake off some of the soil that is with the roots of the tree. Spray some water on the roots to moisten it. Plant it in a much larger container like that of a 5 gallon to give ample space for the roots of the plant to grow.

    Use plastic pots when you plant the Meyer lemon tree seedling, it makes it easy to move when you need it to put it in indoors when the weather changes. Poke holes on the bottom of the plastic pot so that when you water the tree it won’t be soaked. When you plant the Meyer tree seedling, its level from its original container should be the same. Bury the Meyer tree seedling firmly that the stem is straight upwards and not swaying.

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    The Meyer lemon tree needs constant watering as it has to have a lot of water especially when it is outdoors. Organic fertilizers should also be used for it to grow fully. The soil has to be moist, organic fertilizers are the best for it does not have harmful chemicals. 

    Fertilize your Meyer lemon tree or as directed in the package of the organic fertilizer.Choose the right spot for the Meyer lemon tree to grow, it needs ample direct sunlight. Usually it has to be in the sunlight for six to eight hours on a daily basis. When the Meyer lemon fruit has turned into yellow-orange you may use it already.  This tree bears a lot of fruits, you can use only that which you need as its fruit do not overripe. 


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