Most Americans consider the mango an exotic fruit with the taste of a peach and pineapple. Although it is popular in tropical areas it actually originated in Southeast Asia or India where it has been grown more than 4,000 years. Over the years mango groves have spread to many parts of the tropical and sub-tropical world, where the climate allows the mango to grow best. Mango trees are evergreens that will grow to 60 feet tall. The mango tree will fruit 4 to 6 years after planting. Mango trees require hot, dry periods to set and produce a good crop. Most of the mangos sold in the United States are imported from Mexico, Haiti, the Caribbean and South America.
Varieties
Today there more than 1,000 different varieties of mangos throughout the world. Mangos come in different shapes, sizes and coloring depending on the ripeness. The colors range from yellow to green to orange or red. They weigh as little as a few ounces up to a few pounds. All varieties have a very rich tropical flavor when ripe.
My fascination with fruit trees and what I learn along the way.
Friday, September 30, 2011
Wednesday, September 28, 2011
Guava Trees
The Guava is a sub-tropical fruit native to central America. It is grown from Florida across the lower south, gulf coastal region to Texas, as an outdoor plant. With a good source of light, it can be grown in containers and brought indoors for growing in northern climates. The Guava is a small tree or evergreen shrub that produces fragrant white flowers followed by 2-4 inch long round or oval shaped fruits. The fruits come in different varieties ranging from white, pink, yellow, or red. When ripe they are soft with a creamy texture. The juice is very sweet and highly nutritious. The trees are generally self-fertile, however they do produce a much larger crop when cross-pollinated with other varieties. Guava trees are easy to grow and are adaptable to many soil types. However, they prefer regular watering and fertilizing on a monthly basis. Willis Orchard Company offers a unique selection of Guava trees (Pink, Yellow, White, and Red). So try one of each for your home orchard, you won't regret it.
Tuesday, September 27, 2011
Planting Your Peach Tree
Planting a peach tree is a simple process, but there are a few steps that need to be taken to ensure that your tree has the best chance of thriving in its new location. Here are some tree planting tips:
The site you choose is very important when planting fruit trees. Peach trees need a sandy, well-drained soil. Water should drain away quickly after a rainfall, and the roots will not survive in a thick, clay-type soil. Full sun is required as well, so ensure that there is no shade blanketing the tree from nearby trees or buildings.
Peach trees are best planted when dormant, in the winter or very early spring months. This will allow the roots time to adjust and establish themselves when the warmer months arrive.
Visit us for more fruit trees tips
Before you purchase your peach tree, take a soil sample to the nursery to have it analyzed. The garden experts there will be able to tell you if you need to add anything to the soil, such as lime or phosphorous, before planting.
Create a hole in the earth that is large enough to encompass the entire root system of the tree. Do not add fertilizer to the earth, as it can burn the tree's tender roots.
After purchasing your peach tree, soak the roots in water for about 24 hours before planting. Trim off any damaged or decaying roots, being careful not to go overboard in your trimming.
Place the root system of the peach tree in the ground, and cover with soil. Pack the soil in gently as you work. Make sure that the bud union of the tree (the point where the root system meets the tree trunk) ends up about 1 to 2" from the ground level.
Water the area where the tree was planted, and make sure there are no weeds in the near vicinity. If desired, add a layer of mulch where the hole was dug out to deter weed growth and retain moisture.
The site you choose is very important when planting fruit trees. Peach trees need a sandy, well-drained soil. Water should drain away quickly after a rainfall, and the roots will not survive in a thick, clay-type soil. Full sun is required as well, so ensure that there is no shade blanketing the tree from nearby trees or buildings.
Peach trees are best planted when dormant, in the winter or very early spring months. This will allow the roots time to adjust and establish themselves when the warmer months arrive.
Visit us for more fruit trees tips
Before you purchase your peach tree, take a soil sample to the nursery to have it analyzed. The garden experts there will be able to tell you if you need to add anything to the soil, such as lime or phosphorous, before planting.
Create a hole in the earth that is large enough to encompass the entire root system of the tree. Do not add fertilizer to the earth, as it can burn the tree's tender roots.
After purchasing your peach tree, soak the roots in water for about 24 hours before planting. Trim off any damaged or decaying roots, being careful not to go overboard in your trimming.
Place the root system of the peach tree in the ground, and cover with soil. Pack the soil in gently as you work. Make sure that the bud union of the tree (the point where the root system meets the tree trunk) ends up about 1 to 2" from the ground level.
Water the area where the tree was planted, and make sure there are no weeds in the near vicinity. If desired, add a layer of mulch where the hole was dug out to deter weed growth and retain moisture.
Monday, September 26, 2011
Growing Fruit Trees – Zone Specifications Critical for Success
Growing fruit trees in the continental United States normally dictates that we plant deciduous fruit trees. An exception would be citrus fruit trees, which are grown in subtropical zones (zones 9 and 10), or in containers for inside temperature control. Nursery grown fruit trees are usually orchard quality trees that are grown by fruit growers and the backyard gardener for producing backyard fruit.
The zone in which the fruit grower is located is critical for success for the many fruit varieties that are offered. All nursery grown fruit tree varieties have zone recommendations on the tags or in the nursery advertisements. Zone specifications are just as important to the backyard fruit grower as the professional orchard fruit grower.
Most subtropical fruit trees are evergreen. The subtropical fruit trees will withstand some below freezing weather if they are in their dormant season or semi-dormant season. In temperate climatic zones, the fruit grower will need to move the citrus varieties inside during the winter months. Temperate zone fruit trees would include apples trees, cherry trees, pear trees, and peach trees. Subtropical fruit trees would include orange and lemon trees.
Caring for fruit trees is much the same as caring for any plant. Proper soil, drainage, moisture, and fertility conditions would need to be maintained. Proper care for the fruit bearing branches is unique as compared to other trees.
Pruning fruit trees should begin at an early age. Most fruit trees produce more quality fruit, and live longer, healthier lives if properly maintained and pruned. Fruit tree pruning does not need to be complicated or confusing. Many times the nursery will do the initial pruning on the dormant fruit tree. If the fruit tree arrives already pruned from the nursery, it can be planted without further pruning.
If the dormant bareroot tree arrives with long branches and over 3 foot tall, prune the tree to knee high and cut the side branches back by at last 2/3rds to promote vigorous new growth. Top pruning induces lateral branch growth, and in fruit trees, this produces a more easily accessible tree branch and shapely form. Pruning also diverts the expenditure of nourishment to form woody growth to that of buds and fruit.
Fruit trees are fast growing. After the spring flush of growth, cut the new growth back by ?. In late summer, prune the new growth on the branches back again by ½. The 2nd year pruning of the backyard fruit tree is the same as the first. Cut back new growth by half in the spring and again in late summer. In the 3rd year, choose a height and do not let the tree get any taller.
Tree height is a decision for the pruner. When there are vigorous branches above the chosen height, cut back or remove them. I n late spring or early summer, pinch back all new growth. Size development and low fruiting wood is determined in the 3rd year. Each branch should have at least 6 inches of free space around them. Remove all crossing branches that are too close together. Keeping fruit tree branches open to allow more light and freedom for bee movement is important. Sunlight and bees carrying pollen should allow for more and larger fruit. All varieties of fruit trees can be maintained at a predetermined height if pruned consistently.
Pollination of backyard fruit trees is just as important to the small property owner as it is to a professional nursery. Many varieties of fruit trees are not self pollinating and require another fruit tree for pollination. Every fruit tree needs pollen to set fruit regardless of zone. Nursery grown apple trees will have pollinators by every row of apple trees. Even if the apple tree is known as self-fruitful, pollen from other compatible apple trees can assist in setting more fruit. Cross pollinizing varieties should bloom at approximately the same time as the other apple tree.
Crabapple trees are exceptional pollinizers because of their heavy blooming characteristics and their length of bloom period. Other fruit trees, such as sweet cherries, need pollinizers to produce fruits. Sour cherry trees are mostly self-fruitful. Many peach, pear, and plum trees are self-fruitful and will benefit from having a compatible pollinizer close by. Lemon and orange trees are mostly self-fruitful.
The zone in which the fruit grower is located is critical for success for the many fruit varieties that are offered. All nursery grown fruit tree varieties have zone recommendations on the tags or in the nursery advertisements. Zone specifications are just as important to the backyard fruit grower as the professional orchard fruit grower.
Most subtropical fruit trees are evergreen. The subtropical fruit trees will withstand some below freezing weather if they are in their dormant season or semi-dormant season. In temperate climatic zones, the fruit grower will need to move the citrus varieties inside during the winter months. Temperate zone fruit trees would include apples trees, cherry trees, pear trees, and peach trees. Subtropical fruit trees would include orange and lemon trees.
Caring for fruit trees is much the same as caring for any plant. Proper soil, drainage, moisture, and fertility conditions would need to be maintained. Proper care for the fruit bearing branches is unique as compared to other trees.
Pruning fruit trees should begin at an early age. Most fruit trees produce more quality fruit, and live longer, healthier lives if properly maintained and pruned. Fruit tree pruning does not need to be complicated or confusing. Many times the nursery will do the initial pruning on the dormant fruit tree. If the fruit tree arrives already pruned from the nursery, it can be planted without further pruning.
If the dormant bareroot tree arrives with long branches and over 3 foot tall, prune the tree to knee high and cut the side branches back by at last 2/3rds to promote vigorous new growth. Top pruning induces lateral branch growth, and in fruit trees, this produces a more easily accessible tree branch and shapely form. Pruning also diverts the expenditure of nourishment to form woody growth to that of buds and fruit.
Fruit trees are fast growing. After the spring flush of growth, cut the new growth back by ?. In late summer, prune the new growth on the branches back again by ½. The 2nd year pruning of the backyard fruit tree is the same as the first. Cut back new growth by half in the spring and again in late summer. In the 3rd year, choose a height and do not let the tree get any taller.
Tree height is a decision for the pruner. When there are vigorous branches above the chosen height, cut back or remove them. I n late spring or early summer, pinch back all new growth. Size development and low fruiting wood is determined in the 3rd year. Each branch should have at least 6 inches of free space around them. Remove all crossing branches that are too close together. Keeping fruit tree branches open to allow more light and freedom for bee movement is important. Sunlight and bees carrying pollen should allow for more and larger fruit. All varieties of fruit trees can be maintained at a predetermined height if pruned consistently.
Pollination of backyard fruit trees is just as important to the small property owner as it is to a professional nursery. Many varieties of fruit trees are not self pollinating and require another fruit tree for pollination. Every fruit tree needs pollen to set fruit regardless of zone. Nursery grown apple trees will have pollinators by every row of apple trees. Even if the apple tree is known as self-fruitful, pollen from other compatible apple trees can assist in setting more fruit. Cross pollinizing varieties should bloom at approximately the same time as the other apple tree.
Crabapple trees are exceptional pollinizers because of their heavy blooming characteristics and their length of bloom period. Other fruit trees, such as sweet cherries, need pollinizers to produce fruits. Sour cherry trees are mostly self-fruitful. Many peach, pear, and plum trees are self-fruitful and will benefit from having a compatible pollinizer close by. Lemon and orange trees are mostly self-fruitful.
Citrus Trees
Citrus is thought to have developed in Southeast Asia in about 4000 BC. Citrus probably entered Europe after the fall of the Roman Empire. Citrus fruits were first brought to America by the Spanish and the Portuguese. The fact that citrus trees are evergreen and cannot tolerate freezing dictated that the warm climates of Florida and California became the leading citrus producing states in the Unites States. Citrus fruits belong to the ‘Rutaceae’ family. Citrus fruits are fragrant, with or without seeds depending on the variety, and contain significant amounts of vitamin C, pectin, and fiber. They are fat free, sodium free, and cholesterol free.
The dwarf citrus trees offered by Nature Hills may also be grown inside. Dwarf citrus trees in containers can be successfully grown throughout the United States. Citrus like 8 to 12 hours of sunlight a day. Full-spectrum fluorescent grow lights are the best supplement for inside growth. They will tolerate less light in the winter than in the spring and summer. For container soil, use a light, well draining commercial soil mix. Do not put gravel in the bottom of the pot. Place the container on pebbles in a saucer or other surface that will allow air and water flow. Water them every 5 to 7 days with ¼ to ½ gallon of water. Do not keep them standing in water. The soil should be moist, not soggy. Citrus foliage benefits from being sprayed or misted with water, especially in winter months when the humidity might be low. A humidifier would also help keep the leaves lush and healthy.
The dwarf citrus trees offered by Nature Hills may also be grown inside. Dwarf citrus trees in containers can be successfully grown throughout the United States. Citrus like 8 to 12 hours of sunlight a day. Full-spectrum fluorescent grow lights are the best supplement for inside growth. They will tolerate less light in the winter than in the spring and summer. For container soil, use a light, well draining commercial soil mix. Do not put gravel in the bottom of the pot. Place the container on pebbles in a saucer or other surface that will allow air and water flow. Water them every 5 to 7 days with ¼ to ½ gallon of water. Do not keep them standing in water. The soil should be moist, not soggy. Citrus foliage benefits from being sprayed or misted with water, especially in winter months when the humidity might be low. A humidifier would also help keep the leaves lush and healthy.
Saturday, September 24, 2011
Cherry Trees
The cherry tree is one of the kingpins of the fruit tree family. The cherry is the fruit of the plant genus Prunus. Like some of the other members of the fruit tree family, cherry trees originated in Asia and have spread over the world. There are hundreds of varieties of cherry trees, and they are usually classified into two groups, the sweet cherry and the tart cherry. Depending on the consumers taste, a garden might contain a sweet cherry for fresh eating, or a tart cherry for baking a pie.
Cherry fruit trees are also grown for their lovely blossoms. There are certain varieties of cherry trees that are grown specifically for their blossoms. The cherry fruit tree allows the garden to produce both delicious fruit and gorgeous blossoms. The spring blooming cherry tree varieties put on an awesome display of blossoms.
Cherry trees produce a hard wood that is used commercially and for its slow burning, aromatic firewood characteristics. Historically, fresh leaves from cherry trees have been used to make medicinal teas. On some early blooming cherry trees, fresh leaves do not appear until after the tree is in full bloom. Not all cherry trees have similar colored fresh leaves as the color of the fresh leaves will differ between varieties. Most fresh leaves are shades of green, copper colored, or tints and shades of a combination of those colors.
Sweet cherry trees tend to be larger than sour or tart cherry trees. A smaller garden may dictate or influence the cherry grower to consider the tree size before putting a larger cherry tree in a small garden. Keep in mind that most rootstocks allow for severe pruning, if the pruning is begun at a young age. Allow room for the wider branches of sweet cherry trees. Sweet cherry trees produce larger cherries that vary in color from reds to nearly black fruit, such the Sweetheart cherry. As the term sweet cherry indicates, they contain more sugars and more calories that sour cherry varieties.
Sour cherries are usually smaller in size and are bright red to yellow in color. The Montmorency sour cherry, for instance, is being advertised for the benefits they are said to produce. Montmorency cherries are considered to be high in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory anthocyanins. Both sweet and sour cherries are high in vitamin C, carbohydrates, fiber, and other vitamins such vitamin A, B1, and B2. Cherries, both sour and sweet, contain anthocyanins.
Sour cherries are mostly self-fertile, so they do not need a companion sour cherry tree to produce fruit. The majority of sweet cherries do need a pollinator in order to produce fruit. The pollinator fruit tree must be compatible with the other sweet cherry tree for fruit production.
Almost all varieties of cherry trees found in the garden will have to be pruned. Pruning and thinning of branches can be done while the tree is quite young. The cherry tree will grow so fast and produce so much foliage they stress themselves by their own unfettered growth. Cherry trees may be pruned in late summer or late winter for best results. Late summer pruning is recommended for the ease of spotting dead or diseased branches, and also assisting in prevention of a disease named silver leaf, that strikes with early winter pruning. When pruning, cut the selected branches at an angle about 1/8 of an inch above the bud. The angled cut will keep water and moisture from collecting that may harbor a disease. Cherry trees should be pruned so the tree branches will have a scaffold shape. There should be about 2 feet between the scaffolded branches so light can reach the lower leaves and fruit.
Cherry fruit trees are also grown for their lovely blossoms. There are certain varieties of cherry trees that are grown specifically for their blossoms. The cherry fruit tree allows the garden to produce both delicious fruit and gorgeous blossoms. The spring blooming cherry tree varieties put on an awesome display of blossoms.
Cherry trees produce a hard wood that is used commercially and for its slow burning, aromatic firewood characteristics. Historically, fresh leaves from cherry trees have been used to make medicinal teas. On some early blooming cherry trees, fresh leaves do not appear until after the tree is in full bloom. Not all cherry trees have similar colored fresh leaves as the color of the fresh leaves will differ between varieties. Most fresh leaves are shades of green, copper colored, or tints and shades of a combination of those colors.
Sweet cherry trees tend to be larger than sour or tart cherry trees. A smaller garden may dictate or influence the cherry grower to consider the tree size before putting a larger cherry tree in a small garden. Keep in mind that most rootstocks allow for severe pruning, if the pruning is begun at a young age. Allow room for the wider branches of sweet cherry trees. Sweet cherry trees produce larger cherries that vary in color from reds to nearly black fruit, such the Sweetheart cherry. As the term sweet cherry indicates, they contain more sugars and more calories that sour cherry varieties.
Sour cherries are usually smaller in size and are bright red to yellow in color. The Montmorency sour cherry, for instance, is being advertised for the benefits they are said to produce. Montmorency cherries are considered to be high in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory anthocyanins. Both sweet and sour cherries are high in vitamin C, carbohydrates, fiber, and other vitamins such vitamin A, B1, and B2. Cherries, both sour and sweet, contain anthocyanins.
Sour cherries are mostly self-fertile, so they do not need a companion sour cherry tree to produce fruit. The majority of sweet cherries do need a pollinator in order to produce fruit. The pollinator fruit tree must be compatible with the other sweet cherry tree for fruit production.
Almost all varieties of cherry trees found in the garden will have to be pruned. Pruning and thinning of branches can be done while the tree is quite young. The cherry tree will grow so fast and produce so much foliage they stress themselves by their own unfettered growth. Cherry trees may be pruned in late summer or late winter for best results. Late summer pruning is recommended for the ease of spotting dead or diseased branches, and also assisting in prevention of a disease named silver leaf, that strikes with early winter pruning. When pruning, cut the selected branches at an angle about 1/8 of an inch above the bud. The angled cut will keep water and moisture from collecting that may harbor a disease. Cherry trees should be pruned so the tree branches will have a scaffold shape. There should be about 2 feet between the scaffolded branches so light can reach the lower leaves and fruit.
Thursday, September 22, 2011
Planting a Blueberry Tree
Blueberries are rich in vitamin C,iron, potassium and delicious ! However, they can be expensive to purchase, growing them in your own garden is a good idea. You'll get some exercise and have tasty fruits to enjoy as a bonus. They require an acidic soil, so it's a good idea to have your soil tested before planting.
Mix in 1-cubic foot of peat moss within the surrounding soil. Once it is well blended, fill the hole with the new soil mixture until the hole is 4-inches deep.
Prune back the bush's branches by 30 percent after planting.Remove older wood leaving the new wood at the bottom behind.
Select a site for planting a blueberry bush. When looking for a site, keep in mind that blueberries need full sun and will not grow well in an area populated by trees. Blueberries also have specific soil needs. They grow in acidic soils, with optimal pH ranging from 4.5 to 5.5.
Dig a hole 18-inches deep and 18-inches wide using a shovel or small trowel.
Mix in 1-cubic foot of peat moss within the surrounding soil. Once it is well blended, fill the hole with the new soil mixture until the hole is 4-inches deep.
Place the blueberry bush in the hole, setting it down gently but firmly. Allow the roots to spread naturally careful not to break or damage them.
Fill in the hole with the remaining soil mixture. Tap it down firmly with your hands or feet to remove air pockets.
Water the bush well immediately after planting. Blueberries need 1 inch to 2 inches of water a week, so they will need regular waterings during dry spells.
Spread a layer of mulch 2-inches deep around the bush. Use either wood chips or sawdust for mulching.
Prune off any flower buds at planting time and continue to remove buds throughout the first growing season.
Visit us for more fruit tree tips
Wednesday, September 21, 2011
Papayas
The exact origination of papaya is unknown but it is believed to be native to southern Mexico and neighboring Central America. The papaya is a melon like fruit with yellow-orange flesh enclosed in a thin skin that varies in color from green to orange to rose. Papayas are a good source of vitamin A and C.
Today papaya can be found all year long with the peak season being early summer and fall. Most of the papayas imported come from Hawaii, but smaller quantities from Florida, California, Mexico, Puerto Rico, and Central and South American countries are becoming more available.
The papaya enzyme called papain, is used as a meat tenderizer. It breaks down tough meat fibers. Its use is nothing new. South American cooks have been using papaya to tenderize meat for ages. It is sold as a component in powdered meat tenderizer available in most supermarkets
Varieties
There are two types of papayas, the Hawaiian and Mexican. The Hawaiian varieties also known as Solo papayas, are found most often in supermarkets. These fruits are pear shaped, weigh about a pound each, and have yellow skin when ripe. The flesh is bright orange or pinkish, depending on the variety. The Mexican varieties are not as common but can be found in Latino supermarkets. Mexican papayas are much larger then the Hawaiian types and can weigh up to 20 pounds and be more than 15 inches long. Although the flavor is less intense than the Hawaiian varieties, they are still delicious and enjoyable.
Today papaya can be found all year long with the peak season being early summer and fall. Most of the papayas imported come from Hawaii, but smaller quantities from Florida, California, Mexico, Puerto Rico, and Central and South American countries are becoming more available.
The papaya enzyme called papain, is used as a meat tenderizer. It breaks down tough meat fibers. Its use is nothing new. South American cooks have been using papaya to tenderize meat for ages. It is sold as a component in powdered meat tenderizer available in most supermarkets
Varieties
There are two types of papayas, the Hawaiian and Mexican. The Hawaiian varieties also known as Solo papayas, are found most often in supermarkets. These fruits are pear shaped, weigh about a pound each, and have yellow skin when ripe. The flesh is bright orange or pinkish, depending on the variety. The Mexican varieties are not as common but can be found in Latino supermarkets. Mexican papayas are much larger then the Hawaiian types and can weigh up to 20 pounds and be more than 15 inches long. Although the flavor is less intense than the Hawaiian varieties, they are still delicious and enjoyable.
Monday, September 19, 2011
Grape
The grape is one of the oldest fruits to be cultivated going back as far as biblical times. Spanish explorers introduced the fruit to America approximately 300 years ago. Some of the most popular ways in which the fruit is used, is eaten fresh, in preserves or canned in jellies, dried into raisins, and crushed for juice or wine. Although, machines have taken the place of much handwork, table grapes are still harvested by hand in many places. (Wellness Encyclopedia of Food and Nutrition, 1992).
Grapes are about 80 percent water, making them a delectable low-calorie snack or dessert; a cup of Concord or Catawba grapes contains only about 60 calories Grapes also add fiber to the diet and are naturally low in sodium. Raisins, or dried grapes, contain only about 15 percent water. For this reason, nutrients and calories are more concentrated in raisins-one cup contains 464 calories! Like other dried fruit, raisins are a good source of iron. Serving Size 1-1/2 cups (138g/14.9oz)
Varieties
Grapes come in more than 50 varieties in black, blue, blue-black, golden, red, green, purple, and white colors with a juicy pulp inside. The two main types of grapes are the American and European. They both come in seeded and seedless varieties. Common varieties include Thompson, Flame, Ruby, Perlette and Tokay grapes. Most U.S. grapes are grown in California
Grapes are about 80 percent water, making them a delectable low-calorie snack or dessert; a cup of Concord or Catawba grapes contains only about 60 calories Grapes also add fiber to the diet and are naturally low in sodium. Raisins, or dried grapes, contain only about 15 percent water. For this reason, nutrients and calories are more concentrated in raisins-one cup contains 464 calories! Like other dried fruit, raisins are a good source of iron. Serving Size 1-1/2 cups (138g/14.9oz)
Varieties
Grapes come in more than 50 varieties in black, blue, blue-black, golden, red, green, purple, and white colors with a juicy pulp inside. The two main types of grapes are the American and European. They both come in seeded and seedless varieties. Common varieties include Thompson, Flame, Ruby, Perlette and Tokay grapes. Most U.S. grapes are grown in California
How to Prune an Old Plum Tree
Locate and cut out dead and diseased branches. Disinfect the tools after each branch to avoid spreading the disease.
Trim broken branches or cut them out completely, depending on the importance of the branch to the structure of the tree. Trim a scaffolding branch (main branch), if necessary, to a point where it will be able to recover. Remove small or side branches.
Visit us for more fruit trees tips
Cut out branches that have grown across each other so they do not become damaged and provide an entrance for silver leaf disease.
Trim new growth back by one-third on branches that you want to keep intact. Cut off the new growth, such as suckers and water sprouts, if it does not promote fruit production.
Apply the protective sealer to the pruning cuts, if desired, especially those larger than 2 inches in diameter.
Trim broken branches or cut them out completely, depending on the importance of the branch to the structure of the tree. Trim a scaffolding branch (main branch), if necessary, to a point where it will be able to recover. Remove small or side branches.
Visit us for more fruit trees tips
Cut out branches that have grown across each other so they do not become damaged and provide an entrance for silver leaf disease.
Trim new growth back by one-third on branches that you want to keep intact. Cut off the new growth, such as suckers and water sprouts, if it does not promote fruit production.
Apply the protective sealer to the pruning cuts, if desired, especially those larger than 2 inches in diameter.
Sunday, September 18, 2011
Apple Trees – Narrowing Down Your Choices of Varieties
Apple trees are one of the most widely planted fruit trees. The home garden with an apple tree has long been a staple for home grown fruit. Apple trees can be grown in a wide variety of areas in the United States. Choosing an apple variety for a particular zone is easy. Narrowing the choices of an apple variety is the difficult part.
Apple trees originated in Asia and there are more than 7,500 cultivars growing around the world. They are fast growing, and their growth per year is measured in feet and not inches. These trees are not real picky when it comes to soil types, so they easily fit into many home garden locations.
The growth of the home garden movement of the past few years has fueled the nursery industry for apple tree production. Heirloom apples, such as the Ashmead’s Kernel variety, are also more popular today than they were several years ago. The appearance of some of the heirloom apples may not be as appealing as a Golden Delicious apple, but the taste is extraordinary and delicious.
Apple varieties are sometimes divided into three categories. The first, and largest category, are those apples bred for fresh eating. The next category is the cooking apple, and finally the cider apples. Cider apples are typically too tart for fresh eating but they give cider a rich taste that dessert apples, such as a Golden Delicious apple, cannot.
Apples are mostly bred for skin color, long storage capacity, high yields, disease resistance, and taste. Examples of red skinned apples are Red Delicious, Akane, Cortland, Mollies, Delicious, and the Spartan. Golden or yellow skinned examples are Golden Delicious, Yellow Newton Pippen, Yellow Transparent, Mutsu, Calville Blanc, and Granny Smith. Striped or multi-colored apple examples are Braeburn, Cox Orange Pippin, Gravenstein, and Honeycrisp. The color of the apple’s skin does not determine whether it is sweet, tart, crisp or soft. Apples vary in tastes, textures, and some have very subtle variances.
Garden and yard size, along with soil types, do have a bearing on selecting an apple tree. Rootstocks are used to control tree sizes, so if a small apple tree is needed to fit in a small garden or yard, a dwarfing rootstock is used. Rootstocks are also used to assist in disease resistance and soil condition variables. An apple variety such as the Golden Delicious, can be selected in three tree sizes.
Dwarf varieties will grow between 5 and 8 feet tall, semi-dwarf varieties are usually 12 to 16 feet tall, and standard varieties get between 20 and 30 feet tall. Rootstock selection will control the tree size in feet and inches. Rootstocks can also be selected to produce healthy, high producing apple trees in sandy or heavy soil types. Some rootstocks can help a fruit tree resist diseases in heavier water logged soils.
To insure apple production on any variety of apple tree depends on pollination. Pollination is needed for a fruit flower to produce an apple, and assisting in pollination of the fruit tree can substantially increase production.
Apple trees originated in Asia and there are more than 7,500 cultivars growing around the world. They are fast growing, and their growth per year is measured in feet and not inches. These trees are not real picky when it comes to soil types, so they easily fit into many home garden locations.
The growth of the home garden movement of the past few years has fueled the nursery industry for apple tree production. Heirloom apples, such as the Ashmead’s Kernel variety, are also more popular today than they were several years ago. The appearance of some of the heirloom apples may not be as appealing as a Golden Delicious apple, but the taste is extraordinary and delicious.
Apple varieties are sometimes divided into three categories. The first, and largest category, are those apples bred for fresh eating. The next category is the cooking apple, and finally the cider apples. Cider apples are typically too tart for fresh eating but they give cider a rich taste that dessert apples, such as a Golden Delicious apple, cannot.
Apples are mostly bred for skin color, long storage capacity, high yields, disease resistance, and taste. Examples of red skinned apples are Red Delicious, Akane, Cortland, Mollies, Delicious, and the Spartan. Golden or yellow skinned examples are Golden Delicious, Yellow Newton Pippen, Yellow Transparent, Mutsu, Calville Blanc, and Granny Smith. Striped or multi-colored apple examples are Braeburn, Cox Orange Pippin, Gravenstein, and Honeycrisp. The color of the apple’s skin does not determine whether it is sweet, tart, crisp or soft. Apples vary in tastes, textures, and some have very subtle variances.
Garden and yard size, along with soil types, do have a bearing on selecting an apple tree. Rootstocks are used to control tree sizes, so if a small apple tree is needed to fit in a small garden or yard, a dwarfing rootstock is used. Rootstocks are also used to assist in disease resistance and soil condition variables. An apple variety such as the Golden Delicious, can be selected in three tree sizes.
Dwarf varieties will grow between 5 and 8 feet tall, semi-dwarf varieties are usually 12 to 16 feet tall, and standard varieties get between 20 and 30 feet tall. Rootstock selection will control the tree size in feet and inches. Rootstocks can also be selected to produce healthy, high producing apple trees in sandy or heavy soil types. Some rootstocks can help a fruit tree resist diseases in heavier water logged soils.
To insure apple production on any variety of apple tree depends on pollination. Pollination is needed for a fruit flower to produce an apple, and assisting in pollination of the fruit tree can substantially increase production.
Saturday, September 17, 2011
Watering fruit trees
Water is the first requirement of the young tree and it will be used up rapidly by trees with a good head of foliage, which container-grown trees should have. If a garden hose reaches the trees easily, let it run in each basin for ten or fifteen minutes twice each week, long enough to fill the basin, for the first month. Thereafter, watering can be less frequent, but whenever new growth is observed to wilt in mid-afternoon, fill the basins again. If a hose cannot be used, supply about eight to ten gallons at each watering. Need for irrigation will be less as the trees increase their root systems each year, but sorne occasions for watering may be expected through the life of the tree.
Friday, September 16, 2011
Planting
Vigorous nursery trees should be planted, preferably those that have been container grown. Container trees can be planted any time of year and they will be more likely to live and thrive. For the person planting only a few trees, this assurance and relief from care is usually worth the difference in cost. These trees may be set out at any time of the year. They should be set at the same soil line as they grew in the nursery row or container and be provided with a basin to hold water around each tree. This basin should hold five to ten gallons of water and should be filled to soak the root area of the young tree as described below. Some of the soil should be removed from the root mass when the tree is planted. This will expose many of the outer roots and allow them to grow quickly into the sand/soil new planting area provided. This soil removal is also important since the difference in soil between the potting mix and the planting site can make a drastic soil interface difference. This can result in difficulty in watering and subsequent root growth.
Thursday, September 15, 2011
Growing a Plum Tree From a Branch
Growing a plum tree from the pit requires cleaning the pit thoroughly and planting it outside in cold-weather climates, or planting it in moss, placing it in a zip-lock bag and keeping it in the refrigerator for six to eight weeks. Begin a plum tree from the pit, which takes about two years to develop into a small plant.
Visit us for more fruit trees tips
Most commercial plums are done by budding, or propagated by budding, but it's quite possible to grow a plum from a branch, and essentially the way that you do it is this; during the winter, and it's important that the branch be taken during a dormant period of the plum, you take a branch from the tree that's about pencil sized.
About fifteen inches in length, ten to fifteen inches in length and about a pencil size in diameter. You take that branch, you sever it at a diagonal with a grafting knife, and then you dip it quickly into rooting hormone. Then you place it in a planting medium composted of sphagnum moss and a sand mixture. And this should be kept very damp. Eventually the plant should take hold, the roots should grow, and you will have a plum tree from a branch. So, that's how to grow a plum tree from a branch.
Growing a plum tree from the pit requires cleaning the pit thoroughly and planting it outside in cold-weather climates, or planting it in moss, placing it in a zip-lock bag and keeping it in the refrigerator for six to eight weeks. Begin a plum tree from the pit, which takes about two years to develop into a small plant.
Visit us for more fruit trees tips
Most commercial plums are done by budding, or propagated by budding, but it's quite possible to grow a plum from a branch, and essentially the way that you do it is this; during the winter, and it's important that the branch be taken during a dormant period of the plum, you take a branch from the tree that's about pencil sized.
About fifteen inches in length, ten to fifteen inches in length and about a pencil size in diameter. You take that branch, you sever it at a diagonal with a grafting knife, and then you dip it quickly into rooting hormone. Then you place it in a planting medium composted of sphagnum moss and a sand mixture. And this should be kept very damp. Eventually the plant should take hold, the roots should grow, and you will have a plum tree from a branch. So, that's how to grow a plum tree from a branch.
Growing a plum tree from the pit requires cleaning the pit thoroughly and planting it outside in cold-weather climates, or planting it in moss, placing it in a zip-lock bag and keeping it in the refrigerator for six to eight weeks. Begin a plum tree from the pit, which takes about two years to develop into a small plant.
Dual-purpose fruits
Dual-purpose fruits are those which combine unusual ornamental value with useful fruit. The kumquats, calamondin, and Meyer lemon are notable examples. Conversational fruits might cover such items as Ponderosa lemon, Ruby blood orange, or purnmelo. These fruits often excite the horticultural interests of guests.
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Grapefruit
Grapefruit is often the second choice in citrus fruits to compliment orange trees. The Duncan variety is one of the best for home use, its quality compensating for its seediness. Many people prefer a red-fleshed variety like 'Redblush' or 'Flame' because of the combination of flesh color and seedlessness. Grapefruit trees are very heavy yielding and maintain good fruit quality for harvest over an extended period each year. Usually, a single grapefruit tree suffices, whereas several sweet orange trees may be wanted.
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
Acid fruits
Acid fruits include lemons and limes, but the true lemon (Eureka & Lisbon types) is not recommended for home use because of its susceptibility to scab. The 'Tahiti' Persian lime and 'West Indian' (Key or Mexican) lime make a satisfactory acid fruit for the home since fruit can be picked any time of the year. The 'Meyer' lemon is a reasonable substitute for true lemons in home gardens. The 'Eustis' or 'Lakeland' limequat and the calamondin are all good acid fruit for landscape use, but have more limited appeal for most people.
Growing Red Plums From Seeds
Locate a red plum tree, and wait until late summer when the plums fall off of the tree. Pick up a fruit from the ground that is not rotten and that has not been chewed on by animals.
Place the red plum on a kitchen cutting board, and cut into it with a knife until you meet resistance. Cut the remainder of the flesh away from the plum to reveal the inner seed, which is large pit.
Hold the plum seed under running water, and rub it with your hands to remove the remainder of the pulp.
Visit us for more fruit trees tips
Lay the plum pit in a dry location for one to two weeks to allow it to dry completely. Store it in a cool, dry location until you are ready to plant it.
Wait until the late fall, after the first frost occurs, and look for an outdoor planting location that has well-drained, fertile soil and direct sun.
Dig a 4-inch deep hole, and insert the plum seed into it. Cover the seed completely with soil, and press down on the top of the soil to compact it.
Water the soil to a 5-inch depth immediately after planting. The plum tree will emerge from the soil in the early spring, at which time you should resume watering.
Place the red plum on a kitchen cutting board, and cut into it with a knife until you meet resistance. Cut the remainder of the flesh away from the plum to reveal the inner seed, which is large pit.
Hold the plum seed under running water, and rub it with your hands to remove the remainder of the pulp.
Visit us for more fruit trees tips
Lay the plum pit in a dry location for one to two weeks to allow it to dry completely. Store it in a cool, dry location until you are ready to plant it.
Wait until the late fall, after the first frost occurs, and look for an outdoor planting location that has well-drained, fertile soil and direct sun.
Dig a 4-inch deep hole, and insert the plum seed into it. Cover the seed completely with soil, and press down on the top of the soil to compact it.
Water the soil to a 5-inch depth immediately after planting. The plum tree will emerge from the soil in the early spring, at which time you should resume watering.
Mandarin hybrids
Mandarin hybrids should have much interest as early-maturing tangerine substitutes. 'Fallglo' and 'Sunburst' are now favored. 'Dancy' tangerines may reach fair eating quality before Thanksgiving, but are usually better later. The 'Ponkan' is an excellent quality, easily peeled tangerine for the home landscape. The homeowner may well decide to substitute a tangor or tangelo for a tangerine when choice must be limited. 'Temple' tangor is superb in quality as well as appearance, as is 'Minneola' tangelo. Many people would choose one of these in preference to grapefruit if a choice were necessary and space were limited. Some of the varieties may be difficult to locate at local nurseries or garden centers. This is certainly true of the newer varieties and some of the older ones that may have fallen out of favor with commercial producers. Satsumas mandarins (often a substitute for sweet oranges) are especially suitable for cold locations (north of Orlando), maturing during late November and maintaining fruit quality on the tree for only about four to six weeks.
Sunday, September 11, 2011
Sweet Orange
Sweet orange is the first choice, and if only a single citrus tree is to be grown, it may well be an early variety such as 'Hamlin' or one of the navel oranges. Navel orange selections are either standard orange fleshed or red fleshed. If there is room for more than one sweet orange tree, a midseason variety such as 'Pineapple' or 'Midsweet' or the late season 'Valencia' should also be considered. Selection of a tree from each of these three maturity seasons (early, midseason, and late) will supply fresh fruit continuously from early November to July.
Cherry
Cherries are drupes, or stone fruits, related to plums and more distantly to peaches and nectarines. They have been enjoyed since the Stone Age-pits were found in several Stone Age caves in Europe. The Romans carried cherries throughout Europe and England along the routes of conquest.
Cherries are grown in several regions of this country, but seventy percent of the cherries produced in the United States come from four states (Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and Utah).
There are two main types of cherries: sweet and sour. Sour cherries are lower in calories and higher in vitamin C and beta carotene than sweet cherries.
Varieties
MontgomeryThis variety is the best known sour cherry. It is mostly canned or frozen for use as pie filling or sauce. They are grown mostly in the eastern and Midwestern states.
BingThis variety is the best known sweet cherry. It is large, round, extra-sweet and has a purple-red flesh and a deep red skin that is close to black when fully ripe. The Bing is available from the end of May until early August.
LambertThis variety is the second most popular sweet cherry. It is smaller than the Bing and is more heart shaped. It has a dark-red skin and a rich flavor. Lamberts are available a bit longer than the Bing, usually until the end of August.
RainierThis variety is sweet with a yellow or pinkish skin. It is milder and sweeter than the Bing. However, this variety is grown in limited quantities.
Royal AnnThis variety has a blush-yellow skin and is often canned or made into maraschino cherries.
Cherries are grown in several regions of this country, but seventy percent of the cherries produced in the United States come from four states (Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and Utah).
There are two main types of cherries: sweet and sour. Sour cherries are lower in calories and higher in vitamin C and beta carotene than sweet cherries.
Varieties
Sour
MontgomeryThis variety is the best known sour cherry. It is mostly canned or frozen for use as pie filling or sauce. They are grown mostly in the eastern and Midwestern states.
Sweet
BingThis variety is the best known sweet cherry. It is large, round, extra-sweet and has a purple-red flesh and a deep red skin that is close to black when fully ripe. The Bing is available from the end of May until early August.
LambertThis variety is the second most popular sweet cherry. It is smaller than the Bing and is more heart shaped. It has a dark-red skin and a rich flavor. Lamberts are available a bit longer than the Bing, usually until the end of August.
RainierThis variety is sweet with a yellow or pinkish skin. It is milder and sweeter than the Bing. However, this variety is grown in limited quantities.
Royal AnnThis variety has a blush-yellow skin and is often canned or made into maraschino cherries.
Apple Varieties
The apple can be traced back to the Romans and Egyptians who introduced them to Britain and finally to America. Today, Americans eat about 120 apples apiece each year. At least 50% of the domestic crop is used in items we use every day such as, applesauce, juice, jellies, pies and other popular desserts. (Wellness Encyclopedia of Food and Nutrition, 1992).
There are about 2500 known varieties grown in the US. Thirty-six states grow them commercially with the following as top producers, WA, NY, MI, CA, PA, & VA. 56%of the 1999 crop was eaten as fresh fruit and 42% was processed.
Varieties
There are about 2500 known varieties grown in the US. Thirty-six states grow them commercially with the following as top producers, WA, NY, MI, CA, PA, & VA. 56%of the 1999 crop was eaten as fresh fruit and 42% was processed.
 | Braeburn Available Oct. through July High flavor impact. The crisp, aromatic Braeburn blends sweetness and tartness just right for snacks and salads. Its color varies from greenish-gold with red sections to nearly solid red. |
 | Golden & Red Delicious Available year round Goldens firm, white flesh retains its shape and rich, mellow flavor when baked or cooked, making it the preferred "all purpose" cooking apple. The skin is so tender and thin that it doesn't require peeling. The red is the favorite for eating. |
 | Fuji Available year round Like fine wine, its flavor improves with age. Fuji's spicy, crisp sweetness makes it an excellent snack or as applesauce. Fuji varies from yellow-green with red highlights to very red. |
 | Gala Available August through March Heart-shaped, distinctive yellow-orange skin with red striping. It has a crisp, sweet taste that can't be beat. Is the perfect take-along snack… anytime. Great in salads. |
 | Jonagold Available September through April A blend of Jonathan and Golden Delicious apples, offering a unique tangy-sweet flavor. With a yellow-green base and a blush stripe. Jonagold is excellent both for eating fresh and for cooking. |
 | Rome Beauty Available September through July Baker's dream, but Also a great eating apple. Smooth, blazingly bright red skin with sweet, slightly juicy flesh. Primarily cooking apples, with flavor that intensifies and becomes richer when baked or sautèed. |
 | Granny Smith Available year round Mouthwatering tartness. Bright green Granny with a pink blush has a crisp bite and a tangy flavor. Its tartness really comes through when baked and sautèed. Enjoy Granny Smiths out of hand or in a salad. |
 | Winesap Available October through August The apple with old-fashioned flavor. The Winesap has a spicy, tart, almost wine-like flavor that makes it the cider maker's first choice. Violet red in color, it's great as a snack and in salads. |
 | McIntosh Available October through December McIntosh is juicy, slightly tart, yet very aromatic with white flesh and a rather tough skin that is two-toned red and green coloring. It's a favorite apple for eating, but is also widely used in salads, sauces, pies and is a mainstay in fresh cider. |
Thursday, September 8, 2011
How to Grow Yellow Plums
Place the cleaned plum seeds in a mix of equal parts of damp sand and dampened peat moss in a plastic bag. Store the bag in the back of a vegetable drawer in the refrigerator for 90 days to break the dormancy of the seed.
Visit us for more fruit trees tips
Prepare seed pots by filling 8 ounce plant pots with a mixture of regular potting soil, peat moss and sand. Bury the seeds about 2 inches down in the mix, and drizzle water over it to settle the soil in around the seeds. Put the plant pots in a warm, sunny spot where the seeds should germinate within two to four weeks. Keep the soil moist at all times until the seeds sprout.
Transplant the seedlings to gallon-sized containers when they get to be about 10 inches tall, and use the same potting soil mixture, keeping the soil around the roots. Fill the pot halfway with the planting mixture, and then place the roots of the plum seedling into the soil. Fill the pot the rest of the way up around the roots and tamp it down slightly. Add enough water so that it drains from the bottom. Place in full sun until the temperature warms enough to plant them outside permanently.
Visit us for more fruit trees tips
Prepare seed pots by filling 8 ounce plant pots with a mixture of regular potting soil, peat moss and sand. Bury the seeds about 2 inches down in the mix, and drizzle water over it to settle the soil in around the seeds. Put the plant pots in a warm, sunny spot where the seeds should germinate within two to four weeks. Keep the soil moist at all times until the seeds sprout.
Transplant the seedlings to gallon-sized containers when they get to be about 10 inches tall, and use the same potting soil mixture, keeping the soil around the roots. Fill the pot halfway with the planting mixture, and then place the roots of the plum seedling into the soil. Fill the pot the rest of the way up around the roots and tamp it down slightly. Add enough water so that it drains from the bottom. Place in full sun until the temperature warms enough to plant them outside permanently.
Wednesday, September 7, 2011
Citrus Types & Varieties
Citrus fruits are classified into different groups by the citrus industry according to their characteristics and use. Sweet oranges and grapefruits are distinctive types which are accepted as a regular part of the diet and consumed as juice or eaten in some form practically every day by many people. Specialty fruits (tangerines and tangerine hybrids) are excellent for holiday or dessert uses. Acid fruits (lemons, limes, and others with high citric acid content) are used as thirst-quenching drinks, garnishes on the dinner table, and ingredients for refreshing pies and delicious cakes. For landscaping, fruit trees have additional ornamental value to enhance the beauty of the surroundings, and a specimen tree of some exotic type adds interest as a conversation piece. If the home site is large enough, several varieties of each type may be selected.
Tuesday, September 6, 2011
How to Prune a Plum Tree
9Plum trees generally are pruned in a vase type format. That means what you want to do is encourage the growth of a fairly short trunk and then encourage three or four major branches to splay off the top of that trunk at about a forty-five degree angle.
Now this is generally accomplished in the winter. In fact the very best time to prune plums is in the very late winter right before bud break. Because at that time, the wounds that you create have less time in which they have to heal before the tree starts to resume growth.
Visit us for more fruit trees tips
Now a vase type arrangement is ideal for plums because it allows a great deal of sunlight to get to the interior of the tree and to get to the fruiting wood. And remember whenever you're pruning, whether it's a plum or any other deciduous tree, never ever leave a stump on the tree. You want to prune it right back to the next major, either to the trunk or to major branches.
A stump is a way that insects, disease and fungus can find their way into the tree. In addition to basic winter pruning, which I've just spoken of, you can also do some light summer pruning. For instance if you get over vigorous shoots, water sprouts or crossing or damaged branches, by all means take those out. However the major pruning, the major shaping of the tree should take place in late winter. Happy growing !
Now this is generally accomplished in the winter. In fact the very best time to prune plums is in the very late winter right before bud break. Because at that time, the wounds that you create have less time in which they have to heal before the tree starts to resume growth.
Visit us for more fruit trees tips
Now a vase type arrangement is ideal for plums because it allows a great deal of sunlight to get to the interior of the tree and to get to the fruiting wood. And remember whenever you're pruning, whether it's a plum or any other deciduous tree, never ever leave a stump on the tree. You want to prune it right back to the next major, either to the trunk or to major branches.
A stump is a way that insects, disease and fungus can find their way into the tree. In addition to basic winter pruning, which I've just spoken of, you can also do some light summer pruning. For instance if you get over vigorous shoots, water sprouts or crossing or damaged branches, by all means take those out. However the major pruning, the major shaping of the tree should take place in late winter. Happy growing !
Pruning Mature Apples and Pears
A good fruit tree should not make a good shade tree. However, when pruning is neglected, many apples and pears become better shade producers than fruit producers. Standard-sized trees often outgrow the reach of ladders or pruning hooks. Backyard and commercial growers have come to prefer dwarf or semi-dwarf trees which are not as tall and are easier to prune, spray, and harvest without the use of ladders.
A neglected but otherwise healthy tree will usually show a marked improvement in fruit quality as a result of pruning. Fruit buds begin developing in the growing season previous to the one in which they mature into fruit, and more are initiated than can be fully developed into fruit. Growing conditions during the season of bud initiation and the subsequent winter will affect the number of buds which flower, and certain cultivars are "alternate bearers" that seldom initiate many buds during a year with a heavy fruit crop. In any case, by late winter the buds for the coming summer's crop will be very evident. Buds only appear on two or three year-old twigs or spurs which are no thicker than a pencil.
The primary purpose of pruning is to increase sunlight penetration, remove less productive wood, and shape the crown into an efficient, stable form. If left unpruned, the quantity of fruit produced might be greater, but the quality much lower. Pruning increases fruit size, promotes uniform ripening, increases sugar content, and decreases disease and insect problems by allowing better spray coverage and faster drying following rainfall. It also allows easier access for timely harvesting.
A neglected but otherwise healthy tree will usually show a marked improvement in fruit quality as a result of pruning. Fruit buds begin developing in the growing season previous to the one in which they mature into fruit, and more are initiated than can be fully developed into fruit. Growing conditions during the season of bud initiation and the subsequent winter will affect the number of buds which flower, and certain cultivars are "alternate bearers" that seldom initiate many buds during a year with a heavy fruit crop. In any case, by late winter the buds for the coming summer's crop will be very evident. Buds only appear on two or three year-old twigs or spurs which are no thicker than a pencil.
The primary purpose of pruning is to increase sunlight penetration, remove less productive wood, and shape the crown into an efficient, stable form. If left unpruned, the quantity of fruit produced might be greater, but the quality much lower. Pruning increases fruit size, promotes uniform ripening, increases sugar content, and decreases disease and insect problems by allowing better spray coverage and faster drying following rainfall. It also allows easier access for timely harvesting.
Sunday, September 4, 2011
When to Prune
The best time to prune is during late winter or early spring just before the beginning of active growth. If large blocks of trees are to be pruned, time it so that you finish just before bud break. It will not harm trees if sap is beginning to flow at the time you prune. The main reasons you should prune during the late dormant period are:
- Wounds heal quickly when growth starts.
- Undesirable branches and other wood to be pruned can be easily seen since there are no leaves on the tree.
- The bark is less likely to tear when cuts are made.
- Trees pruned in early winter may be damaged by low winter temperatures that occur after pruning.
Summer pruning may also be used to control growth of young trees, improve light quality in the fruiting z o n e, thin heavy fruit loads or remove water sprouts and other undesirable wood.
Saturday, September 3, 2011
Planting an Avocado Tree
These are good tips from the masters :
Planting an avocado tree
Visit us for more fruit tree tips
www.buyfruittree.com
Planting an avocado tree
Visit us for more fruit tree tips
www.buyfruittree.com
Thursday, September 1, 2011
Is the avocado a vegetable or a fruit?
The avocado is widely considered a vegetable most commonly used in salads. However, it is actually a fruit that tastes like a vegetable, and most markets display it with other typical fruits.
In some areas, it is known as the avocado pear and also the alligator pear due to the pebbly, rough exterior of one of the common types. There are quite a few varieties of avocados with each person having a preference.
The fruit is harvested from tall trees, which grow in groves. The rich, pale yellow-green flesh of the pear-shaped fruit has a texture likened to a firm ripe banana, smooth and buttery, with a faintly nutty flavor.
Most avocados are grown in tropical climates, primarily in Mexico, California, Hawaii, and Florida. California is the number one producer of avocados in the United States, supplying 95% of the nation's crop, with 85% of the crop being of the Hass variety. Mexico is the world's leading producer of avocados.
Visit us for more fruit trees tips
www.buyfruittree.com
In some areas, it is known as the avocado pear and also the alligator pear due to the pebbly, rough exterior of one of the common types. There are quite a few varieties of avocados with each person having a preference.
The fruit is harvested from tall trees, which grow in groves. The rich, pale yellow-green flesh of the pear-shaped fruit has a texture likened to a firm ripe banana, smooth and buttery, with a faintly nutty flavor.
Most avocados are grown in tropical climates, primarily in Mexico, California, Hawaii, and Florida. California is the number one producer of avocados in the United States, supplying 95% of the nation's crop, with 85% of the crop being of the Hass variety. Mexico is the world's leading producer of avocados.
Visit us for more fruit trees tips
www.buyfruittree.com
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)