Monday, January 30, 2012

How to grow kiwi

Commonly known as kiwi or Chinese gooseberry, and native to certain areas of China, kiwi needs a long growing season of at least 240 frost-free days and winter temperatures no lower than 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Kiwi plants need to acclimate to cold slowly because sudden temperature drops can split its bark while late freezes cause damage to buds, according to the California Rare Fruit Growers. Moreover, kiwifruit varieties have different requirements of chill days, or total hours between 32 and 45 degrees F.

Purchase a pair of kiwi plants from a local nursery. Kiwi plants require cross fertilization, so be sure to buy at least one male and one female plant. If you want more than two, plant at a ratio of 8 females to 1 male to ensure adequate cross-pollination and fruit set. 

Purchase as many pairs of cedar posts as you have plants. Also acquire as many 8-foot lengths of garden wire as you have plants.

Pick a sunny location, protected from strong winds, where the kiwi plants have space to grow across a trellis system. Kiwi prefers well-drained, slightly acid soil with a pH of 5.0 to 6.0 that is rich in organic material.
 
Build two single wire trellis systems by digging two pairs of 3-foot-deep holes 8 feet apart to hold the redwood posts for each plant. Mix the cement and water in the wheelbarrow, according to the directions on the bag, and pour it into the holes. Place a redwood post in each hole and let the cement harden. Run wire across each pair of posts and anchor to the posts with fence staples.
 
Dig holes for the kiwi plants, making sure to dig each hole large enough to avoid bending the roots but no deeper than needed. Mix mulch into the soil, but do not add fertilizer as the roots are sensitive to fertilizer burn.
 
Plant the kiwifruit and cover with soil. Do not mound the soil up around the kiwi plant. Water the plants well and keep the soil around the plants moist but not soggy to avoid root rot.Prune shoots to train the kiwi vine.
 
Apply nitrogen-rich fertilizer during the first half of the growing season.
For more fruit tree planting tips visit us



 

Friday, January 27, 2012

Fruit Trees for Small Spaces

By Andrew M Kelly

I love the tips he gives ! 

We are continually being told, in the media and by our doctors, that we should all lead healthier lifestyles, eating more fresh fruit and taking more regular exercise. One of the best ways to do this is to grow our own produce but it is often difficult to grow fruit and vegetables in small spaces. This article takes a look at growing fruit trees in small spaces.

Fruit trees can look spectacular in any garden, as well as the incredible blooms of blossom you, of course, benefit from the annual production of fruit. By growing your own fruit it is possible to grow it organically (by not using artificial chemicals and fertilizers) which could save you a large amount of cash. Furthermore the fruit can be picked at the exact moment you wish to eat it. Fruit this fresh is far better for you as stored fruit tends to lose it's flavor and the vitamins and minerals can degrade over time.

For the health conscious amongst us you should be aware that gardening is one of the best ways to make sure that you get some regular exercise and the garden can be the perfect place to enjoy other energetic pastimes. Unfortunately most modern, urban backyards are only small spaces. Sometimes the backyard has barely enough space to have a small patio and a tiny lawn with a few flower borders. However, with a little time and effort, it is possible to create a fantastic garden design for the very smallest of backyards.

Great Source For Buying Fruit Trees

Unfortunately trees are not always the most suitable plants to grow in small spaces. In general trees tend to grow extremely large and the spreading branches and roots can end up causing some serious damage to nearby buildings and pools. Having a large mature tree in a small space can become a nightmare as the restricted space can cause problems when attempting to remove such a tree. Obviously it is far better to plant only suitable trees and shrubs in the first place.

Happily the increasing demand for smaller species of trees and shrubs has led to the development of some very interesting varieties and a fantastic selection of dwarf or compact fruit tree varieties have been created. Usually the fruit tree has its growth restricted by grafting it onto specially grown dwarfing root stock such as M9. Although the dwarf M27 root stock was once very popular the M9 stock has proved far more reliable and it has the bonus of increased yields of fruit.

You will be able to find a dwarf or compact fruit tree which grows as small as 1m but unusually they grow from between 1.5m to 1.8m. If you find that this size is still a little too large for your small backyard then you can further restrict growth by planting the fruit trees in containers. Such trees can be places on patios or sunny balconies and size can be even further reduced by careful annual pruning.

For those of us with really tiny backyards one of the most exciting developments in the horticultural world is the development of dual fruit trees. A dual fruit tree is really two different species which have been grafted onto a single dwarfing root stock. Another thrilling variety of compact fruit tree is the "midget fruit tree" which is so called because the tree has an extremely upright and non-spreading habit. The finest examples are those types are the Spur Apples which have an extreme upright habit which appears to be covered in fruit. Some types of tree can be trained to grow right up against walls and other surfaces saving even more space.

As well as compact apple trees it is possible to find dwarf compact varieties of many other types of fruit tree such as plums, pears and cherries. Other fruits include peaches and nectarines and even hazelnuts, Kiwi fruit and figs can be purchased in dwarf varieties. Even in a really small backyard it is possible to grow a large selection of fruit which not only tastes great but looks fantastic too.
http://www.landscapinginfo4u.com/ is dedicated to providing quality information about all aspects of landscape gardening. The author, Andrew Kelly, has been a keen gardener since his childhood and, now retired, he spends most of his spare time enjoying the hobby and writing about it.

Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Container Gardening

Growing Cantaloupes in Containers - Here are my tips

What type of cantaloupe should I choose?

Just about any variety of cantaloupe can be grown in a container, as long as the container is large enough,enough space for the vines to trail and the fruit to grow. You can even grow some of the jumbo varieties provided that you have space. With smaller spaces as most of us container gardeners are, choosing a short vining and small fruited type would be a good bet.

You may also want a variety which produces early if your growing season is short. Be sure to choose one which you think you will enjoy eating!  It makes the work worth your while when you can enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Monday, January 23, 2012

Cantaloupes - Container Gardening

Feeding and Fertilizer

Cantaloupes can be heavy feeders, so be sure to give them plenty of food, especially during the heavy growth phase. A good slow-release fertilizer mixed into the soil will be enough for the first 6 weeks or so. After that period supplement with compost tea or additional slow-release fertilizer.

If you plant your cantaloupe in a self-watering container here is a trick which works very well. Fill your container to the top with good soil, pack down and water in thoroughly. On one long side about 1 inch from the edge, dig a trench about 1 inch deep and wide then fill it with slow release fertilizer. A good balanced 10-10-10 or 12-12-12.

More tips are available here

Cover the entire container with a plastic 'mulch' or plastic garbage bag (I used red tomato 'mulch') and secure it to the sides with clips (spring metal binder clips work great). Along the side opposite the fertilizer, cut 3 to 4 holes in the plastic.  Pllant your cantaloupe seeds an inch or so from the edge, according to the package directions. You can add a trellis to the container. Make sure the reservoir always has plenty of water. As your plants grow, train the vines up the trellis and prop the fruit in the squares as they develop.

Location

Cantaloupe love sun and warmth. Place your container in a warm location that will get at least 8 hours of sun a day.
These tips and tricks will also work very well for cucumbers, squash, and even watermelon! For larger fruits and squash, try tying the fruits to the trellis with old pantyhose - cut off a leg, slip over the developing melon or squash, and tie to the support. The hose will stretch with the fruit and when ripe, simply untie from the support.

Happy gardening !

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Growing Asian Pears

Remove all weeds within a 3-foot radius of the Asian pear tree's planting area.
Dig a planting hole three times the width of the Asian pear tree's root ball and the same depth at which it has been growing. Scrape the inside walls and floor of the hole with a gardening fork to allow for easier root penetration.

Place the Asian pear's root ball in the hole. Fill the hole halfway with soil and the rest of the way with water. When the water drains, fill the hole with soil. Tamp around the base of the tree with your hands or feet.

Spread a 3-inch layer of mulch on the soil, keeping it 2 inches from the tree's trunk, in a 1-foot radius around the Asian pear tree.

Water the tree until the water puddles. Keep the soil moist until the tree becomes established.

Cut off the top of the Asian pear tree immediately after planting so that it is 25 to 30 inches tall. After the first year of growth, while the tree is dormant, choose four strong limbs, spaced around the tree, and cut off all the others. Cut the main limbs in half to create the structure of the tree. In the second dormant season, leave six main branches and cut them to 30 to 36 inches in length.
Fertilize the Asian pear tree in its second year with 1 cup of 10-10-10 fertilizer. Apply half the fertilizer in the spring before new growth and the other half after the fruit sets. Scatter the fertilizer on the soil 2 inches from the base of the tree, and spread it out to the drip line. Lightly scratch it in with a rake and water the tree normally. In subsequent years, apply the fertilizer at 1/2 cup per year the tree has been in the ground, split into two applications as you did in the first application.

Visit us for more asian pear tree tips !

http://www.buyfruittree.com/

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Some Asian Pears Varieties

SHINSUI  Fruit is medium sized (7-11 oz) with a green-brown to orange-brown russet skin.  Flesh is off-white, tender-crisp, very juicy and sweet.  Fruit quality is very good to excellent.  Tree is very vigorous, upright, erect with a poor lateral branching.  Stores about 6 weeks.  Ripens mid August.   Earliest ripening.

KOSUI      A medium sized (10-14 oz), early maturing, light green to yellow-bronze fruit with a slight russet.  Flesh is tender crisp, juicy, sweet with no acid.  Tree is vigorous, upright, a strong grower, and moderately productive.  Fruit quality is good to very good.  Stores about 3 months.  Ripens late August.  

HOSUI     Excellent golden brown russet variety.  Excellent taste and eating qualities.  Flesh is off-white, tender crisp, very juicy, very sweet.  Size is medium to large (12-14 oz).  Tree is medium to large, productive, weeping, and spreading.  Stores about 3 months.  Reported to develop water core if stored too long when picked very ripe.  Ripens late August, early September.    

SHINSEIKI  Popular early season variety.  Fruit is yellow-green to pale yellow, smooth with small lenticels, size is large.  Flesh is white, sweet, firm, crisp and juicy.  Tree is moderately vigorous, dense, very productive and precocious.  Fruit quality is good to very good.  Excellent storage life, about 7-8 months.  Fruit ripens in late August, early  September.  Also known as New Century.  

CHOJURO Medium to large, flattened, brown russet greenish fruit with thick skin.  White flesh is crisp like an apple when ripe; mild, slightly aromatic flavor.  Keeps in cool storage until February.  Medium size, spreading, vigorous, early bearing tree; reliable annual bearing tree with somewhat drooping habit.  Somewhat prone to overbearing; needs some thinning.  It ripens in mid September.  

NIJISSEIKI Best known Asian pear.  Fruit is green to greenish yellow, smooth with some lenticels.  Fruit size is medium (9-14 oz.).  Flesh is white, firm, crisp, very juicy and sweet with a refreshing tartness.  Fruit quality is good to very good.   Tree is of moderate vigor, upright and productive.  Stores about 5 months.  Ripens in mid September.  Also known as 20th Century.  

SHINSEIHO  Rather large fruit with light yellow to green fruits that tend to be sweet with a small bit of tartness.  The flavor improves after developing in storage for a couple of weeks.  Ripens in mid to late September.  

Visit us for more fruit trees tips

http://www.buyfruittree.com/

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Pear Trees Facts

Types

The yellow Bartlett, red Bartlett, green and red Anjou, Bosc, Comice, Concorde, Seckel and Forelle are varieties of pears grown in the northwestern United States. Blake's Pride, Gourmet Dwarf, Kieffer, Luscious, Orient, Potomac Pear, Summercrisp and Warren pears are also among the thousands of known varieties of pears in the world.

Many pear trees, such as those of the Bartlett pear, prefer slightly acidic and soil that is deep, heavy and moist but well-drained. Pear trees are especially sensitive to salt. They prefer cool damp climates but also do well in full sun.


Pear trees do not start producing fruit until 4 or 5 years, so until then they can be a bit harder to identify. Most pear trees are oval in shape, with glossy green leaves that alternate and have tiny teeth on the edges. Some varieties have small white blossoms. Because there are so many varieties, acquiring a tree identification book is best if you wish to figure out what kind of pear tree you have.

The size of a pear tree depends on how large the roots are. Many pear trees are grafted onto small rootstock to keep the size down for the purpose of gardens and easy reach when picking the fruit. If allowed, a pear tree will grow larger than most gardeners would care to handle. Most trees are also pruned to maintain a height no taller than 20 feet and a width no larger than 15 feet. If one has a large yard, the trees will grow beyond 30 feet tall and 20 feet wide.

Pears contain high levels of vitamins A, C and E1, copper and potassium. A medium-size pear has about 6 grams of fiber, or 24 percent of what is recommended for daily health

Visit us for more tips

Sunday, January 15, 2012

History Of Plum Trees And Their Hybrids

The documentation of ancient plums growing in antiquity is sparse. The best evidence of that oldest existence is best documented through America’s most famous pomologist, Luther Burbank, who reported in his twelve volume botanical literary classic, Small Fruits, Volume IV page 136, that the European plum, Prunus domestica, and its ancestor fruit originated in the Caucasus Mountains near the Caspian Sea.

Burbank detailed evidence that the prune (dried plum) was a staple food of the Tartars, Mongols, Turks, and Huns “who maintained a crude horticulture from a very early period.” Several websites have put forth the absurd idea that, because the European plum, Prunus domestica, seeds were not found in the ruins of Pompeii after the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD, “whereas, most other old world fruits were,” that this plum could be concluded to be a recent hybrid of “spontaneous chromosome” doubling to produce a hexaploid offspring.

The earliest reference to plum history in the American colonies came from Prince Nursery of Flushing, New York, that was established in 1737 and reported in 1771 in an advertisement “33 kinds of plums” for sale. These plum trees were no doubt European plums, Prunus domestica.

After the year 1755, Henry Laurens, who was a guest and friend of Wililam Bartram, introduced olives, limes, ginger, everbearing strawberry, red raspberry, and blue grapes into the United States. From the south of France he introduced apples, pears, plums, and the white Chasselas grape which bore abundantly. Henry Laurens lived in Charleston, South Carolina and served as a President of the Continental Congress.
William Bartram described two species of American plums in his famous book, Travels, in his 1792 trip to Georgia, where he identified the Chicasaw plum, Prunus chicasaw, and in Alabama, he found a wild plum, Prunus indica.

Luther Burbank contributed more toward improving and hybridizing plum trees of different species than any other person in history. His work on the plum group of stone fruits stands apart from any other person for his unequaled contribution to improving various fruits that are grown and enjoyed today.

Burbank states that his importation of twelve plum seedlings in the year 1885 was the “most important importation of fruit bearers ever made at a single time into America.”
Burbank brought plums from all over the world and intercrossed them in a giant “melting pot” to produce the best characteristics and to reject the wrong ones. These genetic plum mixtures were recombined for many generations and resulted in plum hybrids today that are so different from the original species as to appear to be new species.

Burbank stated that he spent more time hybridizing plums than with any other plant breeding program, and he reported that he screened 7.5 million plum hybrid seedling crosses before releasing outstanding cultivars for sale. His famous line of plum trees that were popular in the late 1890’s are still admired and grown commercially for sale and in backyard gardens today, such as Burbank, Santa Rosa, Wickson, Golden, Satsuma, Shiro, and Ozark Premier. His first huge success was applauded by USDA Professor, H.E. Van Deman, who suggested that the pick-of-the-lot creation of Luther Burbank be named after its creator, thus, the “Burbank Plum.”

Most of Burbank’s plum tree successes come from his combining the genetic materials of 4 major types of plums whose ancestry came from Japan, Europe, America, and China.

The most successful crosses between plums come from the Japanese plum, the most exotic, ‘Satsuma,’ the name suggested by Professor H.E. Van Deman of the USDA, who identified it as being imported from the Satsuma province in Japan. This unique plum grew a red skin with a pale-blue netting bloom overlay. The pulp was dark purplish-red, firm, tasty with an excellent quality to be preferred for home use.

Burbank’s experimental species were Japanese plums, Prunus triflora, that grew wild in Japan and were pickled by the natives. The Japanese plums grew in many colors in skin from white to purple, were large and rather tasteless, but the Japanese natives ate them while green and hard. The Japanese plum genes appear to dominate most hybrid plum offspring. Chinese plums, Prunus simonii, were aromatic, with rich colored skins, a small pit, but the skin cracks and the fruit tastes bitter.

European plums, Prunus domestica, are varied in sizes, largest to small, sweet or sour, complex genes, many colored skins, very widely adaptable, good for fresh eating, drying, or canning. The disadvantage: they are too juicy or watery. “Green Gage” is a well known standard European cultivar. Prunes are very high in sugar content.

Several species of America plums are very hardy and productive to the extent of covering the ground in spring with several layers of fruit. These plums can be tasty but have poor shipping quality. Burbank released an excellent hybrid strain of this cross called “Robinson plum.”

Several American native plum species have been used in hybridization experiments by Luther Burbank. American plums, Prunus Americana, wild goose plums, Prunus hortulans, the chicasaw plum, Prunus augustifolia, Western sand plum, Prunus besseyi, the beach plum, Prunus maritima, and the California wild plum, Prunus subcordata. These native plum trees are unusually cold hardy and frigid temperatures do no harm to them, even in the northernmost part of the central United States.

The “Myrobalan” plum originated as a French species, Prunus cerasif
era is used extensively as a peach tree and plum tree rootstock that tends to be compatible with the resulting fruit tree union and appears to be highly resistant to nematodes and root diseases.

Burbank’s goal in hybridizing plums was to produce a tree that had “stability, novelty, variety, hardiness, beauty, shipping quality and adaptability.”

The plum leaves and twigs exhibit many subtle characteristics that can be experienced by the plant hybridizer to predict the future characteristics of fruit that will be grown from small seedling crosses. Most hybridizers known from experience a predictable outcome, even though these plant qualities are too intangible to explain to an audience, like changing facial expressions or minute variations of color changes. If the leaves of a plant are dark red, the fruit will be red. This same phenomenon is applicable to flowers such as the canna lily leaf color, and the red rhizome color; or in the crinum lily cultivars, a red bulb means a red flower; a light green bulb means a white flower.
Luther Burbank developed a seedless plum by hybridizing a French plum cultivar, “Sans noyaii.” These plums develop into various skin colors ranging from white to yellow, orange scarlet, crimson, violet, deep blue, almost black, striped, spotted, and mottled. These seedless plums were delicious and unique, but were never commercially successful with growers or with public demand.

Burbank crossed many plums that had a tendency to produce fruit with a high sugar content, like the sweetness of figs, pineapple and oranges. This high sugar content makes it possible for the plum (prune) to insure long term preservation, when it is dried. The prune contains a thick and tough skin of such texture that is required to not crack when the commercial drying process begins and proceeds to deliver a tasty, honey-sweet fruit that lasts well.

A prune will not dry properly into a marketable fruit, unless the plum contains a sugar concentration of at least 15%. Before drying, the prune is submerged briefly into an alkali solution that prevents future fermentation by preventing microbes from growing on the surface of the skin. For satisfactory prune production commercially, a prune tree must be a reliable grower with an annual substantial crop of fruit. The prune must ripen early, when the days are long and warm and must drop from the tree to avoid expensive picking costs at the proper ripening time. The prune fruit must cure and dry to a black color and grow a small pit. Most prune hybrids have been hybridized from the European plum, Prunus domestica.

Many cultivars of Plums are recommended for planting: Blue Damson, Chicasaw, Elephant Heart, Green Egg, Methley, Morris, Stanley, Au Amber, Au Homeside, Au Rubrum, Black Ruby, Byrongold, Ruby Sweet, Six Weeks, and Plumcot are just among the few varieties of trees offered in the market today.

There are also three ornamental varieties of flowering plum trees recommend for planting: Newport, Prunus cerasifera 'Newport', Purple Pony Prunus cerasifera 'Purple Pony', and Red Leaf Plum Prunus cerasifera 'Thundercloud', flowering plum trees.
Burbank developed purple leaved plum trees from a French plum ancestor with purple leaves, Prunus pissardi, that commercially are sold as ‘Thundercloud’ flowering plum, Vesuvius, and Othello. Some of these red leaf flowering plums developed by Burbank grew delicious red fruit in addition to the beautiful red ornamental leaves.

Plum fruit is rated high in antioxidant content that offers many health benefits like Vitamin A, Vitamin B1, Vitamin B2, Vitamin C, Niacin, and the minerals; Calcium, Potassium, Phosphorus, and Iron.

Burbank sifted out the complexities of plum hybridization and even crossed the plum with the almond, Prunus dulcis, hoping to create a tasty almond kernel and a tasty pulp. He created many crosses with the Apricot, Prunus armeniaca L., and created plumcot trees, a 50/50 blend of plum trees and apricot trees; Pluot trees demonstrate a 75/25 blend of plum trees and apricot trees; and Aprium trees a 75/25 blend of apricot trees and plum trees.

 

Wednesday, January 11, 2012

How to Fertilize Peach Trees

Till soil around peach tree trunk outward to a diameter of around 5 feet at a depth of several inches. Avoid tilling within 1 foot of trunk,it can harm roots.

Measure proper portion of fruit tree fertilizer, follow instructions on product container. A general rule of thumb is a 1/2 cup per inch diameter of trunk measured 10 inches from soil level.



Spread fertilizer by hand onto tilled soil,gently work in. Be sure to distribute evenly around root zone encircling the tree trunk like a doughnut and leaving what would be the doughnut hole as a 1 foot margin of fertilizer-free space around trunk.

Saturate root zone of tree with a generous amount of water. The emphasis should be on thoroughly drenching soil within 3 to 5 feet of the tree trunk where fertilizer has been applied.

Spread mulch with a shovel over entire root zone at a depth of at least 3 inches to protect the soil and reduce evaporation. Then water mulch with a generous amount of water.

Visit us for more tips

http://www.buyfruittree.com/

Friday, January 6, 2012

Fertilizing Old Peach Trees

Time your fertilization of trees for spring. Peach trees older than four years benefit from an application of fertilizer in March and a second one in May

Loosen the soil around the drip line of the tree carefully with a cultivating rake. Careful not to damage surface roots of the tree. The drip line is the outer limits of the area where the branches of the tree spread.



Spread 1 to 2 lbs. of granulated, balanced fertilizer around the drip line of the tree. Do not put fertilizer near the peach tree's trunk.

Rake the fertilizer under the loosened soil with your cultivating fork.

Visit us for more tips

http://www.buyfruittree.com/

Monday, January 2, 2012

Maintain & Care for a Peach Tree






  • Prepare the soil to the level that you will be planting. Dig a large hole and mix compost,sand into the soil. Ideally the soil should look slightly sandy but hold its shape if you dampen it. Amounts will vary depending on soil type.














  • Remove the tree from the pot and cut away burlap. Soak the tree in a bucket of water for 12 hours. Gently loosen the roots so they spread out in the hole. Fill in the hole so the trees roots are covered but the trunk stays out of the soil. Compact the earth.














  • Prune back the tree, especially side branches, to give it a compact appearance. This will encourage new growth and ensure a larger crop.
















  • Fertilize about 11 weeks after planting with fertilizer rich in nitrogen. Use about a pound and work into the soil. Thereafter, fertilize with 3/4 pound of fertilizer in spring and again in early summer. Always water fertilizer well.














  • Paint the trunk white to prevent winter scald, which can kill the bark and interfere with next season's growing. If the tree will be experiencing freezing conditions, cover with a thermal barrier or even a clear plastic bag.














  • Spray annually before buds form with an organic fungicide as peaches are prone to fungus problems. Spraying with a horticultural oil will help keep insects away.














  • Prune annually. Prune when plant goes dormant in winter. Prune out dead wood, crossing branches, reduce height by 1/3 and clear the center of the tree for better air circulation.










  • Visit us for more tips

    http://www.buyfruittree.com/