Wednesday, January 11, 2012

How to Fertilize Peach Trees

Till soil around peach tree trunk outward to a diameter of around 5 feet at a depth of several inches. Avoid tilling within 1 foot of trunk,it can harm roots.

Measure proper portion of fruit tree fertilizer, follow instructions on product container. A general rule of thumb is a 1/2 cup per inch diameter of trunk measured 10 inches from soil level.



Spread fertilizer by hand onto tilled soil,gently work in. Be sure to distribute evenly around root zone encircling the tree trunk like a doughnut and leaving what would be the doughnut hole as a 1 foot margin of fertilizer-free space around trunk.

Saturate root zone of tree with a generous amount of water. The emphasis should be on thoroughly drenching soil within 3 to 5 feet of the tree trunk where fertilizer has been applied.

Spread mulch with a shovel over entire root zone at a depth of at least 3 inches to protect the soil and reduce evaporation. Then water mulch with a generous amount of water.

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Friday, January 6, 2012

Fertilizing Old Peach Trees

Time your fertilization of trees for spring. Peach trees older than four years benefit from an application of fertilizer in March and a second one in May

Loosen the soil around the drip line of the tree carefully with a cultivating rake. Careful not to damage surface roots of the tree. The drip line is the outer limits of the area where the branches of the tree spread.



Spread 1 to 2 lbs. of granulated, balanced fertilizer around the drip line of the tree. Do not put fertilizer near the peach tree's trunk.

Rake the fertilizer under the loosened soil with your cultivating fork.

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Monday, January 2, 2012

Maintain & Care for a Peach Tree






  • Prepare the soil to the level that you will be planting. Dig a large hole and mix compost,sand into the soil. Ideally the soil should look slightly sandy but hold its shape if you dampen it. Amounts will vary depending on soil type.














  • Remove the tree from the pot and cut away burlap. Soak the tree in a bucket of water for 12 hours. Gently loosen the roots so they spread out in the hole. Fill in the hole so the trees roots are covered but the trunk stays out of the soil. Compact the earth.














  • Prune back the tree, especially side branches, to give it a compact appearance. This will encourage new growth and ensure a larger crop.
















  • Fertilize about 11 weeks after planting with fertilizer rich in nitrogen. Use about a pound and work into the soil. Thereafter, fertilize with 3/4 pound of fertilizer in spring and again in early summer. Always water fertilizer well.














  • Paint the trunk white to prevent winter scald, which can kill the bark and interfere with next season's growing. If the tree will be experiencing freezing conditions, cover with a thermal barrier or even a clear plastic bag.














  • Spray annually before buds form with an organic fungicide as peaches are prone to fungus problems. Spraying with a horticultural oil will help keep insects away.














  • Prune annually. Prune when plant goes dormant in winter. Prune out dead wood, crossing branches, reduce height by 1/3 and clear the center of the tree for better air circulation.










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    Wednesday, December 28, 2011

    Pruning a Strawberry Tree



  • Prune the strawberry tree in early spring before the blooming season. This will promote more healthy growth in the growing season, when the tree can easily recover from the pruning. 








  • Prune the tree so that it grows with a single, strong trunk. Cut away any excessive twists or splits that may cause a second trunk to grow. Strawberry trees will try to grow multiple trunks, but are easier to control with one strong trunk.








  • Trim branches below the desired canopy level. Strawberry branches will droop as the tree grows, reducing visibility of the trunk and limiting the vehicles or people that can pass below. Establish a safe canopy level and prune any branches that droop or develop beneath that level.








  • Cut away any dead or diseased branches to prevent the spread of disease and to promote good health on all branches.






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    Sunday, December 25, 2011

    Care of a Strawberry Tree

      Here are some tips

              Soil
      1. Test the soil in the planting location. The strawberry tree is hardy and will grow in clay or dry soil, but the prefers rich, loamy soil. The soil should also be well-draining, high in acidity and free of lime. While the strawberry tree will tolerate some lime, it grows much better if the soil is lime-free. Use a soil pH testing kit to determine the amount of lime in your soil, but the chances are low that you have lime unless you or someone else previously added it to amend the soil and reduce acidity.

        Location

      2. Strawberry trees are very tolerant of pollutants. For this reason, they are often planted along city streets, in parking lots or in containers on rooftop gardens. Strawberry trees also are tolerant of salt, so they can be planted near warm coasts. Strawberry trees do need some protection from cold winds. These trees prefer full sun or partial shade, and grow best when exposed to morning sun and afternoon shade.

        Watering

      3. Water when the top layer of soil dries out. Strawberry trees are moderately drought tolerant, which means they can withstand short periods of drought, but not extended, dry periods. Test the soil by inserting the tip of your finger into the ground or container soil. If it is dry down to a depth of 2 or 3 inches, the tree needs watering.

        Pruning

      4. Prune your strawberry tree aggressively. The tree should be trained to grow on one trunk to promote strong growth. Prune off secondary trunks in early spring, as well as any branches growing below the desired canopy and branches growing vertically or crossing another branch.
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    Monday, December 19, 2011

    History Of Persimmons

    Japanese persimmons, ‘Diospyros kaki L.,’ were introduced into the United States from Japan by Admiral Perry who discovered the fruit growing on the coast of Southern Japan in 1851.

    Most of the early Japanese persimmon introductions in 1828 were sprouted from seed in Washington, DC, but were unsuccessful, because of the unusually cold winters experienced during that period.

    The USDA introduced grafted cultivars of Japanese persimmon into California and Georgia beginning in 1870, and many of these experimental persimmon tree trials were begun in Central Florida in the early 1900’s at the University located in Gainesville, Florida.

    One thousand cultivars of Japanese persimmon are available from Japan, but from the hundreds of tree cultivars tested in the United States during the past years, only a handful of commercial trees should be considered by the home gardener for reliable fruit production.

    The cultivars of Japanese persimmon trees recommended for home gardeners are Fuyu, Fuyugaki, Giant Fuyu, Chocolate, Eureka, Hachiya, Jiro, Tam-o-pan, and Tanenashi.
    Many cultivars were planted in Florida by Professor Hume of the University of Florida at Gainesville, Florida during the early 1900’s. The trees were a sensation because of the prolific early bearing and the observation that the trees ripened into large crops of colorful, juicy fruit in late fall when very few fresh delicacies are available. Reports of early Japanese persimmon tree orchards show that in excess of 22,000 trees were being grown commercially in Florida alone. The Japanese persimmon trees are classifieds into two categories using two terms that confuse most people. The use of the term “non” is interpreted by most people as a negative, meaning a tree that demonstrates a less desirable quality. Japanese persimmon trees produce fruit that is non-astringent or astringent. The non-astringent term in this case is more desirable for eating to the prevailing garden public, because it contains a “non” bitter taste in the green or hard fruit state. Eventually the astringent Japanese persimmon fruit will develop a juicy, flavorful, very desirable, taste when it ripens to the point of being soft. The peak flavor of a Japanese persimmon never really climaxes until both the non-astringent and the astringent persimmon both ripen completely on the tree to the point of softness. The use of these terms in recommending the purchase of Japanese persimmon trees has been unfortunate, to the point of discouraging many gardeners from planting trees of the astringent persimmon cultivars. Plum trees, for instance, are not classified into two categories of sour and sweet, even though a hard green plum before fully ripening is sour to taste, yet it becomes pleasantly sweet and juicy in the soft colored stage.

    Some botanist historians argue that the Japanese persimmon tree documented as growing there one thousand years ago actually originated in China. This argument is often repeated by academics, when national origins of plants are debated about many other plants, but the argument is meaningless. It is realized by geologists that the land boundary of Japan was united to the continent of Asia at some past period of ancient history.

    Japanese persimmon fruits are produced in great numbers by California orchardists and the fruit begins showing up on grocery shelves around Thanksgiving. South American persimmon fruit production matures at different seasons than persimmons, ripening period in America, so that many grocery stores can stock this delicious tasty fruit year round. Japanese oriental fruits can be stored for two months for future consumption at a refrigerator temperature of 30 degrees Fahrenheit.

    Japanese persimmons grown from seed can grow to 40 feet tall; however, modern grafted cultivars rarely grow very tall. Fruit shapes vary wildly from plum, tomato, and heart-shaped to square, oval, tear drop, and lobed or many combinations in between.
    The small yellow wax-like flowers fill the air with a sweet pleasant aroma. The flowers may or may not require cross pollination, and will mature into a various array of sizes--up to one pound each—and the color ranges from yellow to dark-reddish orange.

    The wood is among the hardest known to man, being highly prized and desirable for wood carving by Japanese artists. The Japanese persimmon tree is a very important landscape specimen tree because of the deep green waxy leaves that turn such brilliant colors in the fall, often appearing like a brightly lit Christmas tree in the landscape.

    The American persimmon, ‘Diospyros virginiana,’ was found growing in Virginia by the early American Captain John Smith in 1609, who described the tree and the persimmon fruit in great detail and as tasting like an apricot.

    William Bartram, the famous early American botanist encountered the native American persimmon trees, ‘Diospyros virginiana,’ as documented in his book, Travels, of 1773. The native American persimmon was also brought to the attention of early American Presidents and plant collectors, George Washington and Thomas Jefferson.

    American persimmons contain a few seeds in the juicy, pinkish-orange fruit which often ripens in September. These delicious fruits have a natural juicy, sweet, fruity taste when overripe in the pinkish-orange stage and should never be picked from the tree until plump, soft to the touch, and completely ripe.

    The American persimmon grows in almost every forest habitat of the United States, and the hard wood of the trees is valued by mountain wood carvers for its decorative grain. The wood is also in high demand for the manufacture of golf clubs prized for the durability and bounce projectability of golf balls coming in contact with the golf club wood.

    Tuesday, December 13, 2011

    Caring for Your Peach Tree

    Soil

    Peach trees should be planted in well drained sandy or loamy soil. Loamy means soil that contains a certain amount of clay. Over time, you can amend your soil to allow good growth of your peach tree. Most peach trees grow best when the soil pH is near 6.5. Taking a soil sample to your local cooperative extension office for evaluation will help with making soil amendments. It's a good idea to check your soil about every three years. When planting more than one peach tree, the trees should be planted in rows 12 to 15 feet apart.

    Planting the Peach Tree

    Pick a place to plant your peach tree that is at least 20 feet away from other trees to gain the full benefit of the sun. Dig the hole for our peach tree about a foot deeper and a foot wider than the pot. The amount of loose soil that is filled in around the roots will allow for good root growth. Add more loose soil into the bottom of the hole in order to plant the peach tree as deep as the top of the soil already in the pot. Place the peach tree in the hole, fill with loose dirt and add water to the hole. Pack the dirt firmly around the peach tree. If the peach tree is planted on a slope, make a little trough for watering.

    Fertilizer

    Fertilize your peach tree about a week after planting and again about a month later. You may need to fertilize again in the spring. A good 10-10-10 fertilizer or fruit tree fertilizer spikes will work well for peach trees. The older the peach tree, the more fertilizer you may need to use.
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    Mulching

    Heavy mulching at least three feet around the peach tree trunk will help prevent weeds and retain valuable moisture. If weeds are surrounding the peach tree, you should keep it mowed or spray with herbicides. Doing so will cut down on insects.

    Watering

    Watering is a tricky business. Over watering is bad for the peach tree and under watering is bad too. Sandy soil will drain much quicker than clay soil and needs to be watered more often than clay soil. A hot summer day will make your peach tree need more water than a cool day. As long as the top few inches of the soil are moist, you should be fine. Looking for leaf droop will also let you know when your peach tree needs watering. Practice will let you know how much water your tree will need on a given day.

    Sun Requirement

    Peach trees need to be planted in an area that will receive full sun, that is, at least six to eight hours per day. Sunlight is important in drying the leaves and the fruit of the peach tree, thereby cutting down on disease. A nice blush on the peaches will depend upon the amount of sun the fruit receives.