Planting a peach tree is a simple process, but there are a few steps that need to be taken to ensure that your tree has the best chance of thriving in its new location. Here are some tree planting tips:
The site you choose is very important when planting fruit trees. Peach trees need a sandy, well-drained soil. Water should drain away quickly after a rainfall, and the roots will not survive in a thick, clay-type soil. Full sun is required as well, so ensure that there is no shade blanketing the tree from nearby trees or buildings.
Peach trees are best planted when dormant, in the winter or very early spring months. This will allow the roots time to adjust and establish themselves when the warmer months arrive.
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Before you purchase your peach tree, take a soil sample to the nursery to have it analyzed. The garden experts there will be able to tell you if you need to add anything to the soil, such as lime or phosphorous, before planting.
Create a hole in the earth that is large enough to encompass the entire root system of the tree. Do not add fertilizer to the earth, as it can burn the tree's tender roots.
After purchasing your peach tree, soak the roots in water for about 24 hours before planting. Trim off any damaged or decaying roots, being careful not to go overboard in your trimming.
Place the root system of the peach tree in the ground, and cover with soil. Pack the soil in gently as you work. Make sure that the bud union of the tree (the point where the root system meets the tree trunk) ends up about 1 to 2" from the ground level.
Water the area where the tree was planted, and make sure there are no weeds in the near vicinity. If desired, add a layer of mulch where the hole was dug out to deter weed growth and retain moisture.
Tuesday, September 27, 2011
Monday, September 26, 2011
Growing Fruit Trees – Zone Specifications Critical for Success
Growing fruit trees in the continental United States normally dictates that we plant deciduous fruit trees. An exception would be citrus fruit trees, which are grown in subtropical zones (zones 9 and 10), or in containers for inside temperature control. Nursery grown fruit trees are usually orchard quality trees that are grown by fruit growers and the backyard gardener for producing backyard fruit.
The zone in which the fruit grower is located is critical for success for the many fruit varieties that are offered. All nursery grown fruit tree varieties have zone recommendations on the tags or in the nursery advertisements. Zone specifications are just as important to the backyard fruit grower as the professional orchard fruit grower.
Most subtropical fruit trees are evergreen. The subtropical fruit trees will withstand some below freezing weather if they are in their dormant season or semi-dormant season. In temperate climatic zones, the fruit grower will need to move the citrus varieties inside during the winter months. Temperate zone fruit trees would include apples trees, cherry trees, pear trees, and peach trees. Subtropical fruit trees would include orange and lemon trees.
Caring for fruit trees is much the same as caring for any plant. Proper soil, drainage, moisture, and fertility conditions would need to be maintained. Proper care for the fruit bearing branches is unique as compared to other trees.
Pruning fruit trees should begin at an early age. Most fruit trees produce more quality fruit, and live longer, healthier lives if properly maintained and pruned. Fruit tree pruning does not need to be complicated or confusing. Many times the nursery will do the initial pruning on the dormant fruit tree. If the fruit tree arrives already pruned from the nursery, it can be planted without further pruning.
If the dormant bareroot tree arrives with long branches and over 3 foot tall, prune the tree to knee high and cut the side branches back by at last 2/3rds to promote vigorous new growth. Top pruning induces lateral branch growth, and in fruit trees, this produces a more easily accessible tree branch and shapely form. Pruning also diverts the expenditure of nourishment to form woody growth to that of buds and fruit.
Fruit trees are fast growing. After the spring flush of growth, cut the new growth back by ?. In late summer, prune the new growth on the branches back again by ½. The 2nd year pruning of the backyard fruit tree is the same as the first. Cut back new growth by half in the spring and again in late summer. In the 3rd year, choose a height and do not let the tree get any taller.
Tree height is a decision for the pruner. When there are vigorous branches above the chosen height, cut back or remove them. I n late spring or early summer, pinch back all new growth. Size development and low fruiting wood is determined in the 3rd year. Each branch should have at least 6 inches of free space around them. Remove all crossing branches that are too close together. Keeping fruit tree branches open to allow more light and freedom for bee movement is important. Sunlight and bees carrying pollen should allow for more and larger fruit. All varieties of fruit trees can be maintained at a predetermined height if pruned consistently.
Pollination of backyard fruit trees is just as important to the small property owner as it is to a professional nursery. Many varieties of fruit trees are not self pollinating and require another fruit tree for pollination. Every fruit tree needs pollen to set fruit regardless of zone. Nursery grown apple trees will have pollinators by every row of apple trees. Even if the apple tree is known as self-fruitful, pollen from other compatible apple trees can assist in setting more fruit. Cross pollinizing varieties should bloom at approximately the same time as the other apple tree.
Crabapple trees are exceptional pollinizers because of their heavy blooming characteristics and their length of bloom period. Other fruit trees, such as sweet cherries, need pollinizers to produce fruits. Sour cherry trees are mostly self-fruitful. Many peach, pear, and plum trees are self-fruitful and will benefit from having a compatible pollinizer close by. Lemon and orange trees are mostly self-fruitful.
The zone in which the fruit grower is located is critical for success for the many fruit varieties that are offered. All nursery grown fruit tree varieties have zone recommendations on the tags or in the nursery advertisements. Zone specifications are just as important to the backyard fruit grower as the professional orchard fruit grower.
Most subtropical fruit trees are evergreen. The subtropical fruit trees will withstand some below freezing weather if they are in their dormant season or semi-dormant season. In temperate climatic zones, the fruit grower will need to move the citrus varieties inside during the winter months. Temperate zone fruit trees would include apples trees, cherry trees, pear trees, and peach trees. Subtropical fruit trees would include orange and lemon trees.
Caring for fruit trees is much the same as caring for any plant. Proper soil, drainage, moisture, and fertility conditions would need to be maintained. Proper care for the fruit bearing branches is unique as compared to other trees.
Pruning fruit trees should begin at an early age. Most fruit trees produce more quality fruit, and live longer, healthier lives if properly maintained and pruned. Fruit tree pruning does not need to be complicated or confusing. Many times the nursery will do the initial pruning on the dormant fruit tree. If the fruit tree arrives already pruned from the nursery, it can be planted without further pruning.
If the dormant bareroot tree arrives with long branches and over 3 foot tall, prune the tree to knee high and cut the side branches back by at last 2/3rds to promote vigorous new growth. Top pruning induces lateral branch growth, and in fruit trees, this produces a more easily accessible tree branch and shapely form. Pruning also diverts the expenditure of nourishment to form woody growth to that of buds and fruit.
Fruit trees are fast growing. After the spring flush of growth, cut the new growth back by ?. In late summer, prune the new growth on the branches back again by ½. The 2nd year pruning of the backyard fruit tree is the same as the first. Cut back new growth by half in the spring and again in late summer. In the 3rd year, choose a height and do not let the tree get any taller.
Tree height is a decision for the pruner. When there are vigorous branches above the chosen height, cut back or remove them. I n late spring or early summer, pinch back all new growth. Size development and low fruiting wood is determined in the 3rd year. Each branch should have at least 6 inches of free space around them. Remove all crossing branches that are too close together. Keeping fruit tree branches open to allow more light and freedom for bee movement is important. Sunlight and bees carrying pollen should allow for more and larger fruit. All varieties of fruit trees can be maintained at a predetermined height if pruned consistently.
Pollination of backyard fruit trees is just as important to the small property owner as it is to a professional nursery. Many varieties of fruit trees are not self pollinating and require another fruit tree for pollination. Every fruit tree needs pollen to set fruit regardless of zone. Nursery grown apple trees will have pollinators by every row of apple trees. Even if the apple tree is known as self-fruitful, pollen from other compatible apple trees can assist in setting more fruit. Cross pollinizing varieties should bloom at approximately the same time as the other apple tree.
Crabapple trees are exceptional pollinizers because of their heavy blooming characteristics and their length of bloom period. Other fruit trees, such as sweet cherries, need pollinizers to produce fruits. Sour cherry trees are mostly self-fruitful. Many peach, pear, and plum trees are self-fruitful and will benefit from having a compatible pollinizer close by. Lemon and orange trees are mostly self-fruitful.
Citrus Trees
Citrus is thought to have developed in Southeast Asia in about 4000 BC. Citrus probably entered Europe after the fall of the Roman Empire. Citrus fruits were first brought to America by the Spanish and the Portuguese. The fact that citrus trees are evergreen and cannot tolerate freezing dictated that the warm climates of Florida and California became the leading citrus producing states in the Unites States. Citrus fruits belong to the ‘Rutaceae’ family. Citrus fruits are fragrant, with or without seeds depending on the variety, and contain significant amounts of vitamin C, pectin, and fiber. They are fat free, sodium free, and cholesterol free.
The dwarf citrus trees offered by Nature Hills may also be grown inside. Dwarf citrus trees in containers can be successfully grown throughout the United States. Citrus like 8 to 12 hours of sunlight a day. Full-spectrum fluorescent grow lights are the best supplement for inside growth. They will tolerate less light in the winter than in the spring and summer. For container soil, use a light, well draining commercial soil mix. Do not put gravel in the bottom of the pot. Place the container on pebbles in a saucer or other surface that will allow air and water flow. Water them every 5 to 7 days with ¼ to ½ gallon of water. Do not keep them standing in water. The soil should be moist, not soggy. Citrus foliage benefits from being sprayed or misted with water, especially in winter months when the humidity might be low. A humidifier would also help keep the leaves lush and healthy.
The dwarf citrus trees offered by Nature Hills may also be grown inside. Dwarf citrus trees in containers can be successfully grown throughout the United States. Citrus like 8 to 12 hours of sunlight a day. Full-spectrum fluorescent grow lights are the best supplement for inside growth. They will tolerate less light in the winter than in the spring and summer. For container soil, use a light, well draining commercial soil mix. Do not put gravel in the bottom of the pot. Place the container on pebbles in a saucer or other surface that will allow air and water flow. Water them every 5 to 7 days with ¼ to ½ gallon of water. Do not keep them standing in water. The soil should be moist, not soggy. Citrus foliage benefits from being sprayed or misted with water, especially in winter months when the humidity might be low. A humidifier would also help keep the leaves lush and healthy.
Saturday, September 24, 2011
Cherry Trees
The cherry tree is one of the kingpins of the fruit tree family. The cherry is the fruit of the plant genus Prunus. Like some of the other members of the fruit tree family, cherry trees originated in Asia and have spread over the world. There are hundreds of varieties of cherry trees, and they are usually classified into two groups, the sweet cherry and the tart cherry. Depending on the consumers taste, a garden might contain a sweet cherry for fresh eating, or a tart cherry for baking a pie.
Cherry fruit trees are also grown for their lovely blossoms. There are certain varieties of cherry trees that are grown specifically for their blossoms. The cherry fruit tree allows the garden to produce both delicious fruit and gorgeous blossoms. The spring blooming cherry tree varieties put on an awesome display of blossoms.
Cherry trees produce a hard wood that is used commercially and for its slow burning, aromatic firewood characteristics. Historically, fresh leaves from cherry trees have been used to make medicinal teas. On some early blooming cherry trees, fresh leaves do not appear until after the tree is in full bloom. Not all cherry trees have similar colored fresh leaves as the color of the fresh leaves will differ between varieties. Most fresh leaves are shades of green, copper colored, or tints and shades of a combination of those colors.
Sweet cherry trees tend to be larger than sour or tart cherry trees. A smaller garden may dictate or influence the cherry grower to consider the tree size before putting a larger cherry tree in a small garden. Keep in mind that most rootstocks allow for severe pruning, if the pruning is begun at a young age. Allow room for the wider branches of sweet cherry trees. Sweet cherry trees produce larger cherries that vary in color from reds to nearly black fruit, such the Sweetheart cherry. As the term sweet cherry indicates, they contain more sugars and more calories that sour cherry varieties.
Sour cherries are usually smaller in size and are bright red to yellow in color. The Montmorency sour cherry, for instance, is being advertised for the benefits they are said to produce. Montmorency cherries are considered to be high in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory anthocyanins. Both sweet and sour cherries are high in vitamin C, carbohydrates, fiber, and other vitamins such vitamin A, B1, and B2. Cherries, both sour and sweet, contain anthocyanins.
Sour cherries are mostly self-fertile, so they do not need a companion sour cherry tree to produce fruit. The majority of sweet cherries do need a pollinator in order to produce fruit. The pollinator fruit tree must be compatible with the other sweet cherry tree for fruit production.
Almost all varieties of cherry trees found in the garden will have to be pruned. Pruning and thinning of branches can be done while the tree is quite young. The cherry tree will grow so fast and produce so much foliage they stress themselves by their own unfettered growth. Cherry trees may be pruned in late summer or late winter for best results. Late summer pruning is recommended for the ease of spotting dead or diseased branches, and also assisting in prevention of a disease named silver leaf, that strikes with early winter pruning. When pruning, cut the selected branches at an angle about 1/8 of an inch above the bud. The angled cut will keep water and moisture from collecting that may harbor a disease. Cherry trees should be pruned so the tree branches will have a scaffold shape. There should be about 2 feet between the scaffolded branches so light can reach the lower leaves and fruit.
Cherry fruit trees are also grown for their lovely blossoms. There are certain varieties of cherry trees that are grown specifically for their blossoms. The cherry fruit tree allows the garden to produce both delicious fruit and gorgeous blossoms. The spring blooming cherry tree varieties put on an awesome display of blossoms.
Cherry trees produce a hard wood that is used commercially and for its slow burning, aromatic firewood characteristics. Historically, fresh leaves from cherry trees have been used to make medicinal teas. On some early blooming cherry trees, fresh leaves do not appear until after the tree is in full bloom. Not all cherry trees have similar colored fresh leaves as the color of the fresh leaves will differ between varieties. Most fresh leaves are shades of green, copper colored, or tints and shades of a combination of those colors.
Sweet cherry trees tend to be larger than sour or tart cherry trees. A smaller garden may dictate or influence the cherry grower to consider the tree size before putting a larger cherry tree in a small garden. Keep in mind that most rootstocks allow for severe pruning, if the pruning is begun at a young age. Allow room for the wider branches of sweet cherry trees. Sweet cherry trees produce larger cherries that vary in color from reds to nearly black fruit, such the Sweetheart cherry. As the term sweet cherry indicates, they contain more sugars and more calories that sour cherry varieties.
Sour cherries are usually smaller in size and are bright red to yellow in color. The Montmorency sour cherry, for instance, is being advertised for the benefits they are said to produce. Montmorency cherries are considered to be high in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory anthocyanins. Both sweet and sour cherries are high in vitamin C, carbohydrates, fiber, and other vitamins such vitamin A, B1, and B2. Cherries, both sour and sweet, contain anthocyanins.
Sour cherries are mostly self-fertile, so they do not need a companion sour cherry tree to produce fruit. The majority of sweet cherries do need a pollinator in order to produce fruit. The pollinator fruit tree must be compatible with the other sweet cherry tree for fruit production.
Almost all varieties of cherry trees found in the garden will have to be pruned. Pruning and thinning of branches can be done while the tree is quite young. The cherry tree will grow so fast and produce so much foliage they stress themselves by their own unfettered growth. Cherry trees may be pruned in late summer or late winter for best results. Late summer pruning is recommended for the ease of spotting dead or diseased branches, and also assisting in prevention of a disease named silver leaf, that strikes with early winter pruning. When pruning, cut the selected branches at an angle about 1/8 of an inch above the bud. The angled cut will keep water and moisture from collecting that may harbor a disease. Cherry trees should be pruned so the tree branches will have a scaffold shape. There should be about 2 feet between the scaffolded branches so light can reach the lower leaves and fruit.
Thursday, September 22, 2011
Planting a Blueberry Tree
Blueberries are rich in vitamin C,iron, potassium and delicious ! However, they can be expensive to purchase, growing them in your own garden is a good idea. You'll get some exercise and have tasty fruits to enjoy as a bonus. They require an acidic soil, so it's a good idea to have your soil tested before planting.
Mix in 1-cubic foot of peat moss within the surrounding soil. Once it is well blended, fill the hole with the new soil mixture until the hole is 4-inches deep.
Prune back the bush's branches by 30 percent after planting.Remove older wood leaving the new wood at the bottom behind.
Select a site for planting a blueberry bush. When looking for a site, keep in mind that blueberries need full sun and will not grow well in an area populated by trees. Blueberries also have specific soil needs. They grow in acidic soils, with optimal pH ranging from 4.5 to 5.5.
Dig a hole 18-inches deep and 18-inches wide using a shovel or small trowel.
Mix in 1-cubic foot of peat moss within the surrounding soil. Once it is well blended, fill the hole with the new soil mixture until the hole is 4-inches deep.
Place the blueberry bush in the hole, setting it down gently but firmly. Allow the roots to spread naturally careful not to break or damage them.
Fill in the hole with the remaining soil mixture. Tap it down firmly with your hands or feet to remove air pockets.
Water the bush well immediately after planting. Blueberries need 1 inch to 2 inches of water a week, so they will need regular waterings during dry spells.
Spread a layer of mulch 2-inches deep around the bush. Use either wood chips or sawdust for mulching.
Prune off any flower buds at planting time and continue to remove buds throughout the first growing season.
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Wednesday, September 21, 2011
Papayas
The exact origination of papaya is unknown but it is believed to be native to southern Mexico and neighboring Central America. The papaya is a melon like fruit with yellow-orange flesh enclosed in a thin skin that varies in color from green to orange to rose. Papayas are a good source of vitamin A and C.
Today papaya can be found all year long with the peak season being early summer and fall. Most of the papayas imported come from Hawaii, but smaller quantities from Florida, California, Mexico, Puerto Rico, and Central and South American countries are becoming more available.
The papaya enzyme called papain, is used as a meat tenderizer. It breaks down tough meat fibers. Its use is nothing new. South American cooks have been using papaya to tenderize meat for ages. It is sold as a component in powdered meat tenderizer available in most supermarkets
Varieties
There are two types of papayas, the Hawaiian and Mexican. The Hawaiian varieties also known as Solo papayas, are found most often in supermarkets. These fruits are pear shaped, weigh about a pound each, and have yellow skin when ripe. The flesh is bright orange or pinkish, depending on the variety. The Mexican varieties are not as common but can be found in Latino supermarkets. Mexican papayas are much larger then the Hawaiian types and can weigh up to 20 pounds and be more than 15 inches long. Although the flavor is less intense than the Hawaiian varieties, they are still delicious and enjoyable.
Today papaya can be found all year long with the peak season being early summer and fall. Most of the papayas imported come from Hawaii, but smaller quantities from Florida, California, Mexico, Puerto Rico, and Central and South American countries are becoming more available.
The papaya enzyme called papain, is used as a meat tenderizer. It breaks down tough meat fibers. Its use is nothing new. South American cooks have been using papaya to tenderize meat for ages. It is sold as a component in powdered meat tenderizer available in most supermarkets
Varieties
There are two types of papayas, the Hawaiian and Mexican. The Hawaiian varieties also known as Solo papayas, are found most often in supermarkets. These fruits are pear shaped, weigh about a pound each, and have yellow skin when ripe. The flesh is bright orange or pinkish, depending on the variety. The Mexican varieties are not as common but can be found in Latino supermarkets. Mexican papayas are much larger then the Hawaiian types and can weigh up to 20 pounds and be more than 15 inches long. Although the flavor is less intense than the Hawaiian varieties, they are still delicious and enjoyable.
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Papayas
Monday, September 19, 2011
Grape
The grape is one of the oldest fruits to be cultivated going back as far as biblical times. Spanish explorers introduced the fruit to America approximately 300 years ago. Some of the most popular ways in which the fruit is used, is eaten fresh, in preserves or canned in jellies, dried into raisins, and crushed for juice or wine. Although, machines have taken the place of much handwork, table grapes are still harvested by hand in many places. (Wellness Encyclopedia of Food and Nutrition, 1992).
Grapes are about 80 percent water, making them a delectable low-calorie snack or dessert; a cup of Concord or Catawba grapes contains only about 60 calories Grapes also add fiber to the diet and are naturally low in sodium. Raisins, or dried grapes, contain only about 15 percent water. For this reason, nutrients and calories are more concentrated in raisins-one cup contains 464 calories! Like other dried fruit, raisins are a good source of iron. Serving Size 1-1/2 cups (138g/14.9oz)
Varieties
Grapes come in more than 50 varieties in black, blue, blue-black, golden, red, green, purple, and white colors with a juicy pulp inside. The two main types of grapes are the American and European. They both come in seeded and seedless varieties. Common varieties include Thompson, Flame, Ruby, Perlette and Tokay grapes. Most U.S. grapes are grown in California
Grapes are about 80 percent water, making them a delectable low-calorie snack or dessert; a cup of Concord or Catawba grapes contains only about 60 calories Grapes also add fiber to the diet and are naturally low in sodium. Raisins, or dried grapes, contain only about 15 percent water. For this reason, nutrients and calories are more concentrated in raisins-one cup contains 464 calories! Like other dried fruit, raisins are a good source of iron. Serving Size 1-1/2 cups (138g/14.9oz)
Varieties
Grapes come in more than 50 varieties in black, blue, blue-black, golden, red, green, purple, and white colors with a juicy pulp inside. The two main types of grapes are the American and European. They both come in seeded and seedless varieties. Common varieties include Thompson, Flame, Ruby, Perlette and Tokay grapes. Most U.S. grapes are grown in California
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grape
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