A favorite for our dips and a must have for our meals, this fruit is primarily pear-shaped, but some varieties are also almost round. They can weigh from 1 ounce to up to 4 pounds each.
The most common types are: Bacon, Fuerte, Gwen, Hass, Pinkerton, Reed, and Zutano, with many chefs having a particular preference for the Hass variety.
Avocados are used not only in salads and the ever popular guacamole, but also in breads, desserts, main dishes, and in non-culinary creams for facials and body massages.
The Taiwanese eat avocados with milk and sugar. Indonesians mix them with milk, coffee, and rum for a cold libation. Filipinos puree them with sugar and milk to make a dessert drink.
Even the avocado tree leaves are used in some parts of Mexico. Both green and dried leaves can be used for wrapping tamales, or seasoning for barbecues and stews. Dried leaves will keep for several months in a tightly-closed container.
For more fruit trees growing tips visit us
www.buyfruittree.com
My fascination with fruit trees and what I learn along the way.
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Saturday, August 27, 2011
Growing a Grape Tree
buyLook for the optimal location for planting your grape tree. Tropical plants do better in southern areas, near overhangs or under extending canopies of tall trees.
Till topsoil to loosen it to a depth of 6 inches. Dig a hole twice the size of the grape tree's root ball, but not deeper than the root ball. Mix the soil taken from the hole with compost. The backfill should consist of half soil and half backfill.
Water the bottom of the hole. Place the grape tree inside of the hole and re-pack the hole with the compost and dirt mixture. Build a berm around the grape tree 1 foot in diameter and 4 inches high, using the rest of the compost and dirt mixture.
Visit us for more tips
www.grapegrowing.buyfruittree.com
Fill the berm with water. Keep your grape tree's root ball moist, especially during the summer. Grape trees cannot survive any periods of drought. Press your fingers into the first 3 inches of soil to feel if it is moist. Apply water to the inside of the berm. To keep the root ball moist, you may need to water your grape tree up to three times a day.
Fertilize your grape tree annually at the beginning of its growing season by applying 4 inches of compost around the tree and about 1 foot away from the base.
Till topsoil to loosen it to a depth of 6 inches. Dig a hole twice the size of the grape tree's root ball, but not deeper than the root ball. Mix the soil taken from the hole with compost. The backfill should consist of half soil and half backfill.
Water the bottom of the hole. Place the grape tree inside of the hole and re-pack the hole with the compost and dirt mixture. Build a berm around the grape tree 1 foot in diameter and 4 inches high, using the rest of the compost and dirt mixture.
Visit us for more tips
www.grapegrowing.buyfruittree.com
Fill the berm with water. Keep your grape tree's root ball moist, especially during the summer. Grape trees cannot survive any periods of drought. Press your fingers into the first 3 inches of soil to feel if it is moist. Apply water to the inside of the berm. To keep the root ball moist, you may need to water your grape tree up to three times a day.
Fertilize your grape tree annually at the beginning of its growing season by applying 4 inches of compost around the tree and about 1 foot away from the base.
Avoid spraying a herbicide anywhere near your grape tree, which cannot survive applications of chemicals like fertilizers or herbicides.
Thursday, August 25, 2011
Guavas
Guavas are evergreen, shallow-rooted shrubs or small trees, with spreading branches. Guava leaves are opposite, oval or oblong-elliptic, somewhat irregular in outline, 2 - 6 inches long. Guava fruits may be rounding, ovoid or pear-shaped. The flesh may be white, pink, yellow, or red.
Soil: The guava prefers many soil conditions, but will produce better in rich soils high in organic matter. They also prefer a well-drained soil in the pH range of 5 to 8. The trees are also well adapted to both summer and winter rainfall conditions.
The soil must be loosened as deep as possible before planting. The filed for planting is prepared during summer season. The pits of 1m x1m x 1m size are dug and filled with a mixture of farmyard manure and soil. The planting is done during the rainy season.
Pruning: In every growing season, a large number of new shoots emerge on a guava tree and majority of these are lateral. These shoots produce fruits. Pruning is usually recommended after harvesting or in spring. Pruning also takes place during harvesting as the fruit is plucked along with the shoot on which it is borne.
Fertilization: Guavas are fast growers and heavy feeders. Mature trees may require as much as 1/2 pound actual nitrogen per year. Apply fertilizer monthly, just prior to heavy pruning. 600 g nitrogen, 400 g Potassium have been recommended.
For the first 4 years the nitrogen should be divided into 4 equal applications viz. 2 weeks before pruning and then at two-monthly intervals.
–1/3rd weeks before pruning
–1/3rd 4 weeks after pruning
–1/3rd 10 weeks after pruning.
Potassium and phosphate
Half the quantity of potassium and all the phosphate must be applied together with the first nitrogen application. The rest of the potassium must be applied 4 months later.
Zinc and boron
This element must be applied every year. – Zinc oxide at 200 g/100 liter water. Many guava orchards are also low in boron and it is desirable to spray the tree every 2 years with 100 g borax /100 liter water.
Pest: Fruit flies are a major pest in guavas in most production areas. Female flies lay white, oblong eggs in groups just under the skin of mature, ripening fruit. A few days later the maggots hatch and feed on the fruit flesh. The maggots are creamy white, reach a length of about 6 mm and have no legs. Pierced fruit is characterized by small holes in the skin surrounded by a bruise. Such fruit soon becomes soft, and can decay and drop early.
For more info visit
www.guavafruittree.buyfruittree.com
Soil: The guava prefers many soil conditions, but will produce better in rich soils high in organic matter. They also prefer a well-drained soil in the pH range of 5 to 8. The trees are also well adapted to both summer and winter rainfall conditions.
The soil must be loosened as deep as possible before planting. The filed for planting is prepared during summer season. The pits of 1m x1m x 1m size are dug and filled with a mixture of farmyard manure and soil. The planting is done during the rainy season.
Pruning: In every growing season, a large number of new shoots emerge on a guava tree and majority of these are lateral. These shoots produce fruits. Pruning is usually recommended after harvesting or in spring. Pruning also takes place during harvesting as the fruit is plucked along with the shoot on which it is borne.
Fertilization: Guavas are fast growers and heavy feeders. Mature trees may require as much as 1/2 pound actual nitrogen per year. Apply fertilizer monthly, just prior to heavy pruning. 600 g nitrogen, 400 g Potassium have been recommended.
For the first 4 years the nitrogen should be divided into 4 equal applications viz. 2 weeks before pruning and then at two-monthly intervals.
–1/3rd weeks before pruning
–1/3rd 4 weeks after pruning
–1/3rd 10 weeks after pruning.
Potassium and phosphate
Half the quantity of potassium and all the phosphate must be applied together with the first nitrogen application. The rest of the potassium must be applied 4 months later.
Zinc and boron
This element must be applied every year. – Zinc oxide at 200 g/100 liter water. Many guava orchards are also low in boron and it is desirable to spray the tree every 2 years with 100 g borax /100 liter water.
Pest: Fruit flies are a major pest in guavas in most production areas. Female flies lay white, oblong eggs in groups just under the skin of mature, ripening fruit. A few days later the maggots hatch and feed on the fruit flesh. The maggots are creamy white, reach a length of about 6 mm and have no legs. Pierced fruit is characterized by small holes in the skin surrounded by a bruise. Such fruit soon becomes soft, and can decay and drop early.
For more info visit
www.guavafruittree.buyfruittree.com
Tuesday, August 23, 2011
Kumquats
Kumquats are slow-growing, evergreen shrubs or small trees, that can grow up to 2.5-4.5 m tall, with dense branches, sometimes bearing small thorns. The leaves are dark glossy green and the flowers are pure white, similar to other citrus flowers, borne singly or clustered in the leaf-axils. The edible kumquat fruits closely resembles that of the orange but is smaller and is often oval, 3-5 cm long and 2-4 cm wide. Depending on variety, peel color ranges from yellow to red. The fruits are extremely juicy and tasty and usually have a sweet outer skin, with large, conspicuous oil glands, accompanied by a tart, inner flesh. The fruits are considered ripe when they reach a yellowish-orange stage, and have just shed the last tint of green.
If you live in a warm climate, you may want to consider the kumquat. It offers an attractive plant and delicious fruit all in one evergreen tree. You can also grow kumquats indoor, in pots, if you live in a colder area. If grown in pots, they must be dwarfed, not be allowed to become pot-bound and need faithful watering to avoid dehydration and regular feeding.
Kumquats are much hardier than other citrus trees. They require a hot summer, with temperatures ranging from 25 to 38 Celsius degrees but can withstand frosts down to about -10 Celsius degrees without injury. The trees also differ from other Citrus species in that they enter into a period of winter dormancy so profound that they will remain through several weeks of subsequent warm weather without putting out new shoots or blossoms. Despite their ability to survive low temperatures, the kumquat trees grow better and produce larger and sweeter fruits in warmer regions.
Visit us for more tips
www.buyfruittree.com
Kumquats are rarely grown from seeds as they do not do well on their own roots. They are grafted onto the trifoliate orange (Poncirus trifoliata). This has been found the best rootstock for kumquats and for dwarfing for pot culture. For this reason they are often known as "Dwarf Fruit". Sour orange and grapefruit are also suitable rootstocks. Rough lemon is unsatisfactory in moist soils and tends to be too vigorous for the slow-growing kumquats.
If you live in a warm climate, you may want to consider the kumquat. It offers an attractive plant and delicious fruit all in one evergreen tree. You can also grow kumquats indoor, in pots, if you live in a colder area. If grown in pots, they must be dwarfed, not be allowed to become pot-bound and need faithful watering to avoid dehydration and regular feeding.
Kumquats are much hardier than other citrus trees. They require a hot summer, with temperatures ranging from 25 to 38 Celsius degrees but can withstand frosts down to about -10 Celsius degrees without injury. The trees also differ from other Citrus species in that they enter into a period of winter dormancy so profound that they will remain through several weeks of subsequent warm weather without putting out new shoots or blossoms. Despite their ability to survive low temperatures, the kumquat trees grow better and produce larger and sweeter fruits in warmer regions.
Visit us for more tips
www.buyfruittree.com
Kumquats are rarely grown from seeds as they do not do well on their own roots. They are grafted onto the trifoliate orange (Poncirus trifoliata). This has been found the best rootstock for kumquats and for dwarfing for pot culture. For this reason they are often known as "Dwarf Fruit". Sour orange and grapefruit are also suitable rootstocks. Rough lemon is unsatisfactory in moist soils and tends to be too vigorous for the slow-growing kumquats.
Saturday, August 20, 2011
Steps for Planting a Landscape Lychee Tree in Your Yard
Find a nice spot for your lychee tree in your front or back yard that has full sun, adequate irrigation, well drained soil, protection from wind and enough room to grow.
Don't plant right next to your house (less than 10 feet) unless you are absolutely sure that you want it there. While you may want the cooling shade that a lychee tree can provide, your house will shade the lychee tree and this can inhibit growth and fruiting.
Dig a hole about 6 inches wider and about 2-3 inches deeper than the size of the container the lychee tree is currently growing in.
If you live in an area with shallow soil or little to no top soil, you should increase the soil depth by planting the tree on a mound. Due to the increase in drainage and runoff that occurs with mounding, you will have to increase irrigation and fertilization appropriately.
Visit us for more tips on fruit trees
Remove your lychee tree from its container and aerate the roots. This is an important step. If the tree has been growing in the container for an extended time period the plant may be "root bound". This situation can prevent the roots from absorbing water and nutrients in the soil which will stunt or kill your tree.
A root bound plant has a mass of intertwined roots growing circularly around the inside of the pot. Make an effort to unwind some of these roots and if the mass is very dense you should make several vertical cuts to allow aeration into the center of the root ball.
Treat with mycorrhizal fungi (like Myco-Stim) by shaking it into the hole and onto the roots of the tree. You won't need NPK fertilizer for about 4 weeks because the Myco-Stim already contains an organic fertilizer from fish emulsion and kelp. Mycorrhizal fungi will help your newly planted tree to establish a healthy root system and to adjust to your trees new location.
Back fill the hole with the remaining soil. If the soil is composed mostly of rock, sand or gravel with little to no organic matter you can mix some topsoil or potting soil into the material that you back fill into the hole. Be careful not to bury the root crown of the lychee tree.
Mulch heavily out to about 1-2 ft past the drip line of the canopy of the lychee tree. Don't put mulch closer than 6 inches from the root crown.
The mulch will provide organic nutrients, as it deteriorates, to the roots of your lychee tree. Mulch helps to reduce the daily temperature stresses to the lychee's root system and provides an excellent growing environment for mychorrhizal fungi, earthworms and beneficial insects, bacteria and other important soil organisms.
By covering the root zone in mulch you will help to slow the growth of plant species, such as grasses and weeds, from becoming established beneath the leaf canopy and competing with your lychee tree for important nutrients.
Soak down really well with water. Water the freshly planted tree 1 - 3 times per day for about 3 - 4 weeks until it becomes established. Then irrigate regularly depending on your irrigation system, rainfall, humidity and soil drainage characteristics.
Spray the leaves with liquid phosphorous fertilizer (like our Phyto-Fos) until runoff. Foliar spraying of phosphorous acid is recommended for supplemental use when there are high demands for phosphorous, such as transplanting, new root and shoot growth, flowering and fruit production. This gives your lychee tree an energy boost while it is adjusting to it's new location. If you decide not to use mycorrhizal fungi you should also apply a good time-release NPK fertilizer at this time.
Don't plant right next to your house (less than 10 feet) unless you are absolutely sure that you want it there. While you may want the cooling shade that a lychee tree can provide, your house will shade the lychee tree and this can inhibit growth and fruiting.
Dig a hole about 6 inches wider and about 2-3 inches deeper than the size of the container the lychee tree is currently growing in.
If you live in an area with shallow soil or little to no top soil, you should increase the soil depth by planting the tree on a mound. Due to the increase in drainage and runoff that occurs with mounding, you will have to increase irrigation and fertilization appropriately.
Visit us for more tips on fruit trees
Remove your lychee tree from its container and aerate the roots. This is an important step. If the tree has been growing in the container for an extended time period the plant may be "root bound". This situation can prevent the roots from absorbing water and nutrients in the soil which will stunt or kill your tree.
A root bound plant has a mass of intertwined roots growing circularly around the inside of the pot. Make an effort to unwind some of these roots and if the mass is very dense you should make several vertical cuts to allow aeration into the center of the root ball.
Treat with mycorrhizal fungi (like Myco-Stim) by shaking it into the hole and onto the roots of the tree. You won't need NPK fertilizer for about 4 weeks because the Myco-Stim already contains an organic fertilizer from fish emulsion and kelp. Mycorrhizal fungi will help your newly planted tree to establish a healthy root system and to adjust to your trees new location.
Back fill the hole with the remaining soil. If the soil is composed mostly of rock, sand or gravel with little to no organic matter you can mix some topsoil or potting soil into the material that you back fill into the hole. Be careful not to bury the root crown of the lychee tree.
Mulch heavily out to about 1-2 ft past the drip line of the canopy of the lychee tree. Don't put mulch closer than 6 inches from the root crown.
The mulch will provide organic nutrients, as it deteriorates, to the roots of your lychee tree. Mulch helps to reduce the daily temperature stresses to the lychee's root system and provides an excellent growing environment for mychorrhizal fungi, earthworms and beneficial insects, bacteria and other important soil organisms.
By covering the root zone in mulch you will help to slow the growth of plant species, such as grasses and weeds, from becoming established beneath the leaf canopy and competing with your lychee tree for important nutrients.
Soak down really well with water. Water the freshly planted tree 1 - 3 times per day for about 3 - 4 weeks until it becomes established. Then irrigate regularly depending on your irrigation system, rainfall, humidity and soil drainage characteristics.
Spray the leaves with liquid phosphorous fertilizer (like our Phyto-Fos) until runoff. Foliar spraying of phosphorous acid is recommended for supplemental use when there are high demands for phosphorous, such as transplanting, new root and shoot growth, flowering and fruit production. This gives your lychee tree an energy boost while it is adjusting to it's new location. If you decide not to use mycorrhizal fungi you should also apply a good time-release NPK fertilizer at this time.
Thursday, August 18, 2011
Tips for Planting your Lychee Tree - Soil
Mounding:
Do not mound the soil around tree(s), which is like growing your tree in a raised bed. While this may be fine for vegetables and certain other row crops it is not good for lychee tree(s): The root systems of air layered lychee trees are typically shallow and spreading, not much deeper that the height of the planting mound.
More tips on fruit trees
Mounding decreases the area through which lychee roots can grow and spread, it increases the exposed soil surface area that is subject to water loss and it exposes a cross section of the root zone to direct invasion by pathogens, such as fungi, nematodes and root damaging weevil.
Fertilizer:
Use organic fertilizers that contain compost extracts, seaweed or kelp. Avoid using artificial fertilizers (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium) that will kill many of the essential organisms in the soil ecosystem of your lychee tree. NPK fertilizers, if misapplied (which is very easy) can burn your lychee tree(s) roots and cause soil particle aggregation, which, over time, negatively affects water drainage and impedes the microenvironments where essential soil food web organisms thrive. Fertilizer by products such as nitrates, sulfates and phosphates cause ground water contamination and regional environmental degradation and should not be used if there are alternatives.
Do not mound the soil around tree(s), which is like growing your tree in a raised bed. While this may be fine for vegetables and certain other row crops it is not good for lychee tree(s): The root systems of air layered lychee trees are typically shallow and spreading, not much deeper that the height of the planting mound.
More tips on fruit trees
Mounding decreases the area through which lychee roots can grow and spread, it increases the exposed soil surface area that is subject to water loss and it exposes a cross section of the root zone to direct invasion by pathogens, such as fungi, nematodes and root damaging weevil.
Fertilizer:
Use organic fertilizers that contain compost extracts, seaweed or kelp. Avoid using artificial fertilizers (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium) that will kill many of the essential organisms in the soil ecosystem of your lychee tree. NPK fertilizers, if misapplied (which is very easy) can burn your lychee tree(s) roots and cause soil particle aggregation, which, over time, negatively affects water drainage and impedes the microenvironments where essential soil food web organisms thrive. Fertilizer by products such as nitrates, sulfates and phosphates cause ground water contamination and regional environmental degradation and should not be used if there are alternatives.
Tuesday, August 16, 2011
Tips for Planting a Lychee Tree - Dangers
Mycorrhizal Fungi:
Mychorrhizal fungi are a very important part of the soil food web and play a significant role in improving lychee tree root health and efficiency, especially in the natural mountain rainforest environments from which lychee trees originated. Fungi convert dead organic material into fungal biomass, carbon dioxide (CO2), and small molecules, such as organic acids. These fungi generally use complex substrates, such as the cellulose and lignin, in wood, and are essential in decomposing the carbon ring structures in some pollutants.
Mycorrhizal fungi enjoy a symbiotic relationship with lychee trees by feeding off of root exudates and providing the lychee tree(s) with a vastly improved transport system for water and soil nutrients through their extensive network of microtubules (hyphae). It is estimated that mycorrhizal fungi can increase the effective root system absorptive surface area by as much as 500%. You should apply (inoculate) mycorrhizal fungi to the root systems of your trees at the time of planting.
Earthworms:
Earthworms are the most important invertebrate member of the soil food web. They are major decomposers of dead and decomposing organic matter, and derive their nutrition from the bacteria and fungi that grow upon these materials. They fragment organic matter and make major contributions to recycling the nutrients it contains. Earthworms dramatically alter soil structure, water movement, nutrient dynamics, and plant growth Earthworms stimulate microbial activity in the soil they tunnel through. They mix and aggregate the soil as they consume organic matter and they increase filtration through burrowing. Earthworm tunneling provides channels for root growth as they bury and shred plant residue pulled from surface material into their burrows.
The bottom line is that the presence of earthworms is a good visible indicator of a healthy soil. If you do not have earthworms you should add them to the soil surrounding your tree. If you do not already have an existing population of earthworms in the surrounding soil you can readily purchase them from any local bait and tackle shop.
Mychorrhizal fungi are a very important part of the soil food web and play a significant role in improving lychee tree root health and efficiency, especially in the natural mountain rainforest environments from which lychee trees originated. Fungi convert dead organic material into fungal biomass, carbon dioxide (CO2), and small molecules, such as organic acids. These fungi generally use complex substrates, such as the cellulose and lignin, in wood, and are essential in decomposing the carbon ring structures in some pollutants.
Mycorrhizal fungi enjoy a symbiotic relationship with lychee trees by feeding off of root exudates and providing the lychee tree(s) with a vastly improved transport system for water and soil nutrients through their extensive network of microtubules (hyphae). It is estimated that mycorrhizal fungi can increase the effective root system absorptive surface area by as much as 500%. You should apply (inoculate) mycorrhizal fungi to the root systems of your trees at the time of planting.
Earthworms:
Earthworms are the most important invertebrate member of the soil food web. They are major decomposers of dead and decomposing organic matter, and derive their nutrition from the bacteria and fungi that grow upon these materials. They fragment organic matter and make major contributions to recycling the nutrients it contains. Earthworms dramatically alter soil structure, water movement, nutrient dynamics, and plant growth Earthworms stimulate microbial activity in the soil they tunnel through. They mix and aggregate the soil as they consume organic matter and they increase filtration through burrowing. Earthworm tunneling provides channels for root growth as they bury and shred plant residue pulled from surface material into their burrows.
The bottom line is that the presence of earthworms is a good visible indicator of a healthy soil. If you do not have earthworms you should add them to the soil surrounding your tree. If you do not already have an existing population of earthworms in the surrounding soil you can readily purchase them from any local bait and tackle shop.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)