Growing Square WaterMelons at Home

An American favorite for meals and snacks. People can't seem to get enough of the sweet treat, and nutritionists have long appreciated the health benefits watermelon provides. Recently research has shed new light on its potential health benefits. Watermelon contains high concentrations of lycopene, an antioxidant that may help reduce the risks of cancer and other diseases.

Watermelon, the fruit that is really a Vegetable. Watermelon can be traced back to Africa and is part of the cucumber and squash family. Early watermelons were mainly rind and seeds. Today's varieties are larger, the flesh sweeter, the seeds smaller and the rind thinner. It is perhaps the most refreshing, thirst quenching fruit of all. Watermelon consists of 92% water and 8% sugar, so it is aptly named. Americans eat over 17 lbs of watermelon each year. The largest one on world record (Guinness Book of World Records) weighed 262 pounds.

Everywhere water melons are round shaped. But, if you happen to come across with a watermelon which is square shaped, do not be under the impression that it is different from the round shaped fruit. Genetically, both are the same.
It is certainly possible to grow square shaped watermelon at your home. Mostly, the shape of a fruit or vegetable depends on its shape at the very early stage. Hence, if you are allowing the watermelon to grow in a square container, the grown up fruit will be likely to be square shaped. Your success is assured in this venture, provided you take adequate care of a few delicate aspects.

When there is yield of square shaped watermelon in your garden, you will be considered as a revolutionary farmer. You must learn the step by step growing method of the plant, preparation of the soil, nurturing the baby fruit, protecting it from pests and other dangers, shaping it in the desired way and finally harvesting it. You must seek the best and reliable guidance that will enable you to make a great excitement in your garden and win the appreciation of your friends and neighbors.

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Learn How To Grow Watermelons

By Sadie Backhurst
Good tips for growing watermelons !
The Watermelon is catalogued to be mutually a fruit as well as a plant from a vine-like herb which derives from Southern Africa. Most watermelons contain a green skin with a pink juicy flesh which can sometimes red, orange, yellow depending on the kind of watermelon or even green if it is not yet ripe.

The fruit is considered to be very tasty, refreshing and can be eaten at any time of the day because it is not heavy on the stomach and it has a nice refreshing flavor. Watermelon produces Vitamin C, as well as beta carotene and lycopene. Instead of always having to buy watermelon from the food store, you can grow your own watermelon. Even though it might be more difficult however, the rewards for producing a successful produce is even bigger. Required Tools: Spade Fork Required Materials: Water Watermelon seeds Compost Fertilizer Bone meal Fertile sand Bone meal

Instructions are as follows:

1. First find a location that gets a lot of sunshine. The area should supply proper air flow and also be guarded from chilly winds for windy times such as during the spring and fall.
 2. The site should be prepared by digging up the area using the garden tools like the shovel and fork. Then put in plenty of organic matter such as well drained manure and fertile loam within the earth in order to provide the right circumstances that the watermelon seeds require to flourish properly.
 3. Watermelon seeds can be purchased at a nursery or a farm house. The seeds should be sown after both air and soil temperatures have gotten to about 65 degrees about two to three weeks after the last frost if you live in a cold atmosphere.   The seeds can be planted right into the soil which is better for harvesting melons during a time when the fruit has enough time to fully develop. Watermelons don't develop very well after being transplanted from a pot so it is not advised.
 4. Dig a hole in the earth about one foot deep and around two feet in breadth and a around a shovel full of compost and a trowel or two of bone meal. Make every hole so that they have lots of space separating each other. They should be someplace from three feet for small bush types to 12 feet apart for giant ramblers.
 5. During the growth process, add thick amounts of organic mulch to hold in the right amount of moisture and deter weeds and keep the melons clean while they grow. You can also utilize a black plastic mulch with slits cut for the plants, and this will contain the heat better than any other soil sheeting.   You can also cover the plants with floating sheets to keep the air humid and give the young plants an inch of water a week.
 6. When the flower starts to appear, then take off all the covers so that air can circulate and pollination can take place for the bees and other insects. Compost should also be used every three weeks to start the fertilization.
7. The melon fruit should be left for around a month after being planted so that they can full blossom, and then they can taken up.

Tips and Warnings *If you are very specific when it concerns the acidity of the earth where the watermelons will be grown, you can test it using an acidity test kit. Watermelons flourish best in soil that is close to neutral PH but can also survive in acidity going up to 5.5. *Plant only one variety of watermelon if you want to keep some of the seeds for the following annum, all watermelons cross-pollinate effortlessly. * Persons who plant watermelon crops should revolve their crops each year with plant disease resistance varieties to drive away insects such as cucumber beetles that transfer the disease. You can also plant radishes within your melon patch to ward off these problems. Watermelons are especially susceptible to fusarium which are mainly found within northern areas.

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Watering Melons

Dig a trench about 4 inches deep in a circular shape about 3 feet in diameter. Pile the soil into the center to form a hill.

Plant melon seeds around the outer edge of your hill, about 6 inches apart. Use a sprinkler or hose spray to water them after planting: it's fine to overhead-water the area until the seeds sprout, about 1 week to 10 days later.

Install a drip irrigation system in your melon patch, or wind a soaker hose in the trench around your melon hills. Alternatively, place the end of a garden hose in the trench.

Run your drip system, soaker hose or garden hose at a medium drip speed for about 30 minutes two or three times each week until the fruit begins to form.

Run your drip system, soaker hose or garden hose at a medium drip speed for about 45 minutes once every 12 to 15 days after melons begin to form on your vines.

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How to Grow Melons

Choose a site that gets full sun and good air circulation. Make sure the spot is protected from strong winds - melons do not fare well in the cold.

Amend the soil with plenty of compost or well-rotted manure to ensure fertility and good drainage.  The soil's pH should be from 6.0 to 7.0.

Prepare the bed a few weeks before planting time by making hills and covering the space with a sheet of black plastic mulch

Buy melon plants at the nursery; otherwise, start seeds indoors one or two weeks before the last expected frost.

Harden off seedlings, whether homegrown or store-bought, and move them to the garden three weeks after the last frost.

Cut a slit in the plastic sheet to accommodate each transplant, and set it into the soil at about an inch deeper than it was growing in its container. Check your seed packet or plant label for spacing. It will vary from 4 to 6 feet for most varieties, 2 feet for bush types.

Mulch with straw, salt hay or compost if you haven't used black plastic, and water thoroughly with compost tea.

Cover the planting area with floating row covers to protect plants from insects and cold winds, but remove the covers as soon as flowers appear: Unless insects can pollinate them, you'll have no crop. When plants begin to set fruit, spray them with fish emulsion or compost tea.

Slide a board under each melon when it's about half-grown to prevent it from rotting.

Make sure plants get at least an inch of water a week at the beginning, but unless a prolonged dry spell strikes, stop watering when the fruits begin to ripen - they'll develop better flavor if they don't get too much moisture during the last week or two.

Wait until melons are fully ripe before you harvest them - they won't ripen off the vine.

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How to Plant a Mango Tree With a Seed

The mango (Mangifera indica L.) is related to the cashew and pistachio and is native to South Asia. To thrive, mangoes require temperatures above 40 degrees Fahrenheit all year, with little rain or fog. Summer sunshine and lots of heat will prompt the mango tree to grow to a height of 65 feet and produce a 20-foot long taproot. A mango tree grown from seed will produce fruit in three to six years.

1. Remove the outer shell surrounding the mango seed with small, sharp pruning shears. Be careful not to injure the seed during removal.

2. Soak the seed in a bowl of room-temperature water for 24 hours.

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3. Fill a planting pot with potting soil, water it well and allow it to drain completely.

4. Plant the seed, 1 inch deep, with the concave edge facing down into the soil. Cover the seed with soil and keep it moist until it germinates, generally within three weeks.

FRUIT TREE DISEASES

Apple Scab
The #1 disease of apple anywhere.
Symptoms:

they are rough fruit

uncommon fruit drop and leaf infection

accompanied by early defoliation.

the following year, you'll find decreased fruit bud growing and general reduction of the strength of the tree.

The fungus that brings on apple scab overwinters in leaf droppings. Early spring winds bring spores into the tree canopy, the consequent is lesions on leaves. Warm rainy climate leads to scab growth. Brand new infections are made through the summer as rains wash the fungus onto other leaves and fruit.
Suggestions:
The fungus that brings on apple scab overwinters in leaf droppings. Early spring winds bring spores into the tree canopy, the consequent is lesions on leaves. Warm rainy climate leads to scab growth. Brand new infections are made through the summer as rains wash the fungus onto other leaves and fruit.
Suggestions:
The fungus that brings on apple scab overwinters in leaf droppings. Early spring winds bring spores into the tree canopy, the consequent is lesions on leaves. Warm rainy climate leads to scab growth. Brand new infections are made through the summer as rains wash the fungus onto other leaves and fruit.
Suggestions:

plant resistant varieties.

gather and take away fallen leaves.

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Fire Blight

It can induce grave harm to apple and pear trees.
Symptoms:

fire blight commonly assaults blossoms, but infection and dying of new shoots are usual.

the downward looped twig tip is a feature of fire blight.
Suggestion:

chop off infected twigs and branches 12 inches beneath the dead area.

clean the pruning tool between cuts by dunking in 10% solution of liquid bleach to stave off dispersing the disease.

Cedar-Apple Rust
Symptoms:

bright orange blemishes on leaves and fruit.

usually lessen the strength of tree.
The fungus that cause cedar-apple rust finish part of their life cycle on red cedar trees that in spring it brings about large, bright orange, gummy lesions at the ends of branches.
Suggestion:

get rid of nearby Eastern red cedars.

Pear ScabPear scab happens in any place pears are grown. Also known as black spot on account of the dark spots it makes on leaves and fruits. Most tainted pears can still be consumed if the scabby area is taken out.
Symptoms:

it first shows up on the bottom and then after on the side of the fruit.

infected fruit frequently become distorted.

scab spores arise in the winter in infected leaves that are on the ground.

invasion of the body starts at the green-tip phase of flower bud development.

infection is greater when blossoms are exposed, but goes forward for about 6 to 9 weeks.

Suggestion:

get rid of leaf debris and infected fruit in the autumn.

PEACHES
Bacterial Spot
Bacterial Spot is one of the most damaging disease in all regions east of the Rockies.
It is first sighted about 3 to 5 weeks after petals fall as small, water-drenched, brown lesions. First evidences on fruit can be misidentified for insect damage. During times of high humidity, gum may ooze out from these wounds.

Types of Fruit Seeds

Fruit bearing plants throughout the world produce seeds. Also known as angiosperms, these fruit plants are also known as flowering plants. The seed production of the fruits produced by angiosperms allows for cross pollination and the ability to propagate more plants in your home garden. Knowing about some of the different seeds produced by fruit-bearing angiosperms educates you further in your gardening endeavors.

Avocado

With its large, single seed, the avocado presents itself as an unattractive fruit with a history of unattractive monikers. Such names for the avocado have included alligator pear and butter pear. Produced by the tree of the same name, the avocado is one of the only edible members of the laurel family and grows well in hot and sunny climates in sandy soils. Avocados do not ripen on the tree, making natural pollination a lengthy process as the fruits have to die and fall from the tree for the large pit in the middle to be accessible. Ripening the fruits at home requires picking them and sitting them aside for a week or two after the fruits have matured. The large, single seed within the fruit varies in color from light yellow to brown and can be smooth or have a brain-like texture. The seed is rather fleshy, making it seem like a fruit itself.

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Black Sapote

Also known as the black persimmon, the black sapote grows native in eastern Mexico and parts of Central and South America. The black sapote contains anywhere from two to 10 seeds within its custard-like flesh, and they're easily spread throughout the wild due to the soft and easily penetrated skin of the black sapote. This allows for birds and other wildlife the ability to spread the seeds with ease. Growing black sapote in your home garden requires that you enrich your soil with plenty of compost and peat moss. Create a humus-enriched environment in which the seeds of the black sapote can germinate. The climate must be warm and sunny like tropical and subtropical parts of the U.S. and parts of the West Coast. The flavor of the black sapote is reminiscent of chocolate, although the fruit and seeds resemble that of a tomato.

Kiwi Fruit

The kiwi fruit, also known as the Chinese gooseberry, presents itself as a thin-skinned and fuzzy fruit that contains an uncountable number of seeds within its green, tangy flesh. The tiny black seeds within the kiwi resemble banana or strawberry seeds in that they appear to be nothing more than little black, pepper-like specs. Planting the kiwi from its small and delicate seeds proves challenging for home gardeners, so growing the plant from cuttings or seedlings is easier. However, the seeds of the kiwi provide home soap-crafting hobbyists with an excellent botanical exfoliant.